Sandi Henderson's "Gracie", a different way to construct the yoke...

I have totally enjoyed making Sandi Henderson's 'Gracie' pattern. I've done it a few times now, and marvel at its ease, until you get to the part with the bias on the neck.

I have nothing against bias binding per se, it's just hard to do it neatly when you tuck in the ends. After thinking on it, I decided to try to construct it a little differently.

Forgive the pictures as this is my first attempt at showing my work in progress, and the photos are a little rough. This will probably make more sense to those of you who have made this jumper a few times. Also, a little disclaimer. I am by NO means an expert in sewing, this is just my way of making this pattern easier for me.



So, you go along as normal, following the pattern instructions, until you get to the round yoke neck piece. Sew the ends as before, but then go ahead and stitch the inside seam of the yoke too. Now, Sandi's patterns have a 1/2" seam allowance. To account for the fact that you'll be leaving the bias edge out of my version completely, only do 1/4" seams so you don't have to adjust the pattern. Once you sew the inside edge, clip the seam allowance, turn right side out and press.





Then, instead of sandwiching the jumper between the outside of the yoke, just stitch one layer of the yoke to the jumper, leaving the other free. You will want to match up the back of the yoke seam with the edge of the back. So, only stitch one side, and only where it meets the actual jumper.





Once you get one side sewn down, press the seams toward the yoke. Then, press 1/4" under on the side that isn't sewn at all. This will serve as a guide when you pin it all down.







Then, pin the turned under edge just to your line of stitching. Pins are your friends here. Because you will be blind stitching and this jumper is reversible, I take a lot of care to make sure that the two sides are matching up so that when you topstitch on one side, it won't be wonky on the other.





Pin all the way around the yoke, and when you come to the arm section, turn both sides under and pin. Then, topstitch the entire yoke. And voila, no more bias binding. Finish the rest of the jumper as in the pattern.









I don't know if this method is any more or less tricky, but at least you don't have to make the bias tape and use more fabric.