The Traditionalist (and a tutorial!)

So, last week I was walking in the woods, and was thinking about flannel and tartan. And here is the result!



I love the traditional look of this jumper. It has a simple design that I enhanced with a little piping and some well placed buttons. I chose black watch plaid on the cream flannel so that it would pop. This dress has growth pleats to which I added tartan ribbon. Growth pleats are just horizontal pleats that are usually about an 1" to 1 1/2" inches in width. It will be in my etsy shop soon.

Anyway, I liked it so much that I decided to make it in red as well, using some European brushed twill that I've had for awhile. Not only that, but I thought it would be nice to share my technique of piping insertion in the yoke, so here goes.

A disclaimer: I am not a sewing expert, so if anyone can offer some more advice, it is much appreciated. These are simply my techniques for working with piping.

So, the first thing you want to do is to choose a simple jumper pattern with a separate yoke. I chose to make the design 'Louise' from Children's Corner. This jumper features buttons down the back, a full skirt, and growth pleats.

Decide which size you will be using. For the red dress I used a size 2. Roughly cut out your pattern piece for the front yoke and then cut a piece of the yoke fabric that is slightly wider than double the yoke width. You want to leave enough extra fabric to compensate for the seam allowances when you stitch down the piping.



The next step is to prepare your piping. I use the Darr ruler and cut off the excess piping allowance. My seams are 1/4", so if yours are wider, you would want to plan accordingly.



Put wondertape on one side. This allows you to place the piping exactly where you want it, without the hassle of using pins. It will wash away when you wash the garment.



Try to place the piping to the slight left or right of center. This doesn't matter all that much because you will select the center front line after the piping is inserted. Stitch straight down the piping directly over the thread used to make the piping itself.





When you have completed that, you simply fold the fabric over the seam allowance of the piping, right sides together. Make sure there is no gap between the piping seam allowance and the fabric itself. In order to keep the grain correct, you have to make sure it's pretty tight. Then stitch just barely to the left of your original stitch line, "squeezing" the piping, and making sure that none of the other threads are showing.





Open the fabric piece up again and press lightly.



Now for the second line of piping. You want the seam allowances to face the other direction. So if your piping seam allowance lay to the right previously, this time you want it to lay to the left, and vice versa. I want my piping to be about two inches apart, so I carefully measure all the way down as I put it into place. Stitch as before.



It will look like this as you stitch the second side.



Press again, making sure the seam allowances lay out from the center.





Now you want to fold your fabric piece so that the two lines of piping match up, so I put right sides together. You want to make sure that the two lines are directly over each other. If it's easier to pin them together, then do so. The fold of the fabric becomes the center front, and then lay your pattern piece as indicated on the fold line.



This pattern requires a lining, so I cut them out at the same time.



When you are done, your piece should look like this. Two lines of piping centered on the center of the yoke. Now just use this piece like you would have used a normal piece of fabric. Just be sure to keep the seam allowances flattened the way they were pressed.



I'm quite pleased with the cute, traditional look, and this is the finished project.





Happy sewing!

From New Hampshire,
~Melissa

Etsuko Furuya, will you design exclusively for me??

birds and berries outfit, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Only half joking there with my title. If I could afford to hire this woman, I would do it. And she doesn't even have to learn English because I speak some Japanese.

I'm in awe, I'm in love, I'm in lust with her designs. This is only the most recent fabric I've acquired of hers. There have been others that I wish I could get my hands on again. Most specifically this one.




It's the first fabric I encountered of hers and I was smitten from the start. There's just something about its funky vibe, retro feel, and color choices that I find irresistible. And judging by how many of these dresses I made, you all felt the same way.

The stripe that went along with that collection was amazing too. My daughter still uses the jumper as a top with a pair of jeans. The colors were so beautiful.

I loved the whole ladybug series, and all the colorways of the bird fabric. Unbelieveable.





Next to come was the vespa overalls which I think are great for boys.






My most recent obsession is this gorgeous double gauze fabric that has the most amazing hand.



I love the softness of the fabric coupled with those gorgeous colors. I've already tried three different patterns with this fabric, but am happiest with the little tunic design from Farbenmix, and the peasant dress with empire styling. Both have just the right amount of gathering, but not too much that you can't see the pattern. Perfection. And it fits the P.'s desire for as much blue clothing as possible. Oh, and she informed me that she likes purple too!

From Nashville,
~Melissa

Oodles of Fabric Goodness

Dateline Los Angeles-

I’ll answer your question right now…no famous people on my flight today. I swear though there was one guy that looked a whole lot like “Benny” from L.A. Law, but I don’t think it was him. The hair was all wrong.

But what I really want to write about is FABRIC! What else? I get very excited when I receive an especially large shipment, even if I’ve already seen the fabric in person. But this was even more fun than that because I ordered some things I hadn’t yet seen with my own eyes. I know we’ve all had the experience of ordering online, only to be completely disappointed with the colors when the yardage shows up on our doorstop. Gladly, this was not to be.



I am trying to put together my line for the fall, and it isn’t coming as easy as the Spring/Summer collection. I think it’s because summer has barely started, and I’m trying to use more somber colors and richer jewel tones. Ordinarily I have no problems with color saturation, but the fabrics that I’m dying to use are not exactly ‘kid fare’.





Two of the fabrics I am working with are from Kaffe Fassett. I seriously have a weak spot for his fabrics, but they are a little tricky sometimes. The two I’m talking about are the bubble bloom colorways of dusk and teal. I am deeply in love, and yet I have “designer’s block.” I think if I just sit with them for awhile, and ponder the possibilities, something fabulous will come…



Meanwhile, Etsuko Furuya’s new fabrics are on their way, and you may have already seen my preview on flickr. I decided to do a reversible asymmetric with her fabrics, coupled with some new Alexander Henry on the reverse. I love the heavier weight of Etsuko’s fabrics for the fall. Just throw on a turtleneck and some leggings, and you’re set.



Finally, I am completely inspired by the brown and gold polka dot from Anna Maria Horner. It’s not new, but it’s new to me, and I am smitten. I’m thinking it’s going to be a great accent for some new designs I have percolating in my brain.

Being the tactile/sight driven person that I am, I have to see a fabric first before I know what I want to do with it. There are so many possibilities (and so little time!), but having these in hand is making it much easier to figure out what to do with them. Happy designing!

~Melissa