little girl Pearl

Thank you!

2010-05-13T15:53:00.001-04:00

Thanks to everyone who commented, the vertical banner it is. Now to grommet and figure out where to hang it. I'll be sure to take pictures of my tent for you all to see.

A New Banner!

2010-05-12T15:59:00.005-04:00

I decided to invest in a new banner for my craft markets this season. I decided to use Vistaprint even though I've heard not the best things about their business cards. (Should you care to know about that, I swear by overnightprints.com for those.) So, I was pleasantly surprised when I unrolled the banners and both looked pretty good. Better yet I won't have to worry about my sign getting wet anymore. My previous sign was a thick white cardboard and was looking a little ratty.

But now, I need your help. I decided to do one vertical and one horizontal design to make sure that I had the look I wanted for the upcoming season. I'm not going to tell you which one I favor, and let you pick. Problem is, I can't decide which looks better. You know that feeling you get when you're too close to a design to properly assess it?? That's the way I feel.

Vertical Banner

Horizontal Banner

So, give me a hand by commenting, and I'll be forever grateful!!

From black-fly infested NH,
Melissa

Trip to Kyoto

2010-04-26T18:37:00.008-04:00

Well, it's a long story. My husband and I were planning a trip to Rome for our 10th Anniversary, but the volcano in Iceland had a little something to say about that! So, without any kind of plan, we decided to head to Japan on a whim. Being a flight attendant has its advantages!

I speak some Japanese and lived there for awhile 20 odd years ago, so Japan is a pretty easy country for me to navigate. We decided on Kyoto because it is lovely this time of year, and there are a lot of historical sites to visit. As my husband aptly put it, "in Rome there are churches and ruins, in Kyoto, temples and gardens." He is quite right. We had a great trip, and it was wonderful for me to be able to practice my language skills. But the reason for this post is actually to show you my new Japanese pattern book!

I don't know why, but I've been hesitant to venture into the Japanese pattern books that are all over etsy. For one, they are a tad expensive, and even though I can read some Japanese, they still look a bit intimidating. Nevertheless, we found a bookstore on the main shopping street of Kyoto, Sanjo-dori. After asking one of the salespeople where to find the handmade sewing books, I found this little gem.

There are a number of adorable looking patterns, and to give you a sampling, here are a few of the patterns I am looking forward to trying. I think my favorite is this one with the ruffled top. I actually made a sundress that has this idea of the ruffling in the front, but I love it with the sleeves. I am thinking to use one of my new Amy Butler bolts with a coordinating solid top and ribbon.

I am grooving on these shorts too. Most kids love pockets, and these look like they would fit just about anything a little girl may want to put in them. Plus, they look ultra comfy! I have some french terry in all sorts of colors, and while it looks like they used a woven linen, I think I'll try them in knit. We'll see.

My big concern is with the sizing. I'm not intimidated with the centimeters, just worry that my all too American child (read: topping the growth charts) will be too large for the dimensions of the pattern. But...nothing to do but try. I can always adjust if necessary.

I'm hoping to have at least one of these dresses for my upcoming show at SOWA. Opening weekend is May 15th and 16th, and I'll be there with some old favorites and hopefully some new styles as well! And I'll let you know how my first foray into sewing Japan-style goes.

Back from a very short trip with very long flights, and glad to be home in New Hampshire,
Melissa

Finally...

2010-01-19T06:26:00.003-05:00

Oh, I've been such a bad blogger. In my defense, I've been completely swamped, and other circumstances have prevented me from writing much in the last few weeks. BUT, I did want to give you all a peek at my brand new dress using Etsuko Furuya's to-die-for new fabric.

I combined it with a lavender linen and Kaffe's cocoa polka dots, and I love how it turned out. I had planned to do something else, but the other bolt from Kokka hasn't arrived yet.

And the other side has Amy Butler's love in navy, with mint and purple. Kinda different for me to have so many different colors playing a prominent role, but I think it works!

And it's so great to have two completely different dresses in one. I really like doing reversible styles because they are just so practical. The only thing I worry about when I combine fabrics that are so different are the trim colors. That is of course, the only thing you see from both sides, so they have to coordinate. But beyond that, I love combining totally color combinations in the same dress.

I'm trying to prepare for the cabin fever show in Boston, but not having too much success in the time department. Well, back to the sewing machine!

Happy Day from my home in NH
~Melissa

While the Cat is Away...

2009-12-31T15:35:00.004-05:00

Well, you know the rest. Yesterday I was down in Concord NH, visiting my favorite quilt shop while my husband is out West, skiing and visiting friends. Peggy Anne's has a wonderful selection of the fabrics I love, and she was running an end of the bolt sale! You just had to purchase at least 5 yards, and it was 40% off! A total steal. So anyway, I got me some LOVE! Oh, it wasn't part of the sale of course, but I couldn't help myself.

Are you jealous? You should be...

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL! Thanks for reading, commenting, and inspiring my creativity!

~Melissa
At home in New Hampshire

little girl Pearl purse tutorial

2009-12-20T14:40:00.015-05:00

Oh goodness, time has gotten away from me I fear. The busyness of the holidays tends to do that. But I finally have the time to sit down and write this tutorial for you! And maybe it's even in time for the more industrious among you to get one done for Christmas. Seriously, it's going to take me longer to write this than it is for you to make one!

What you'll need:

Scissors/rotary cutter
self heal mat (optional)
straight edge ruler (optional)
tape measure
small pieces of fabric, 8"x 9" and 3"x 11"
new or vintage buttons, or trims of your choice
sewing machine
disappearing marker/tailor's chalk

Let's get started!

I think it's easier to use a rotary cutter and straight edge quilting ruler to make sure all the edges are straight, but if you don't have one, you can use scissors. Find two coordinating pieces of fabric that you can cut out two 8"x 9" pieces out of each one. I have chosen a Japanese print and an old piece of Amy Butler Charm that I won't be able to do much else with. You can cut them out at the same time with a rotary cutter, and that way they are sure to be the same size.

Now you need to find one more coordinate, and cut out two pieces each 3" x 11". These will become your handles.

I'll start with the handles first. Fold each in half lengthwise and press. Then open up, and fold the raw edges to the center and press again.

Then refold the center with the raw edges pressed under, press again.

Topstitch the edge together. One note on topstitching; you want to make this as neat as possible no matter what you are topstitching. Choose a foot that has some kind of guide so that your stitches don't look wonky or uneven. This is going to give you a more professional finish, and add to the overall look of the piece. You can topstitch both sides of the handle, but you don't have to. Also, if you wanted to add some kind of decorative stitch, or trim detail, now would be the time to do it.

Then place your handles about 2" from the long edge of would will become the top of your purse. Pin on each side, taking care not to twist the strap.

Repeat for the second handle. You can baste them on at this point, or just leave them pinned.

Take your second purse fabric piece, and pin it directly over the handle piece, making sure your edges line up. If you were using a fabric with a nap (direction), you'd want to make sure that where the handle is is the top or opening of the purse. Repeat for the other side.

You are now going to stitch the tops of the purses. This is important. On ONE of the tops, leave a small opening where you will turn the purse later. I have found it is easiest to leave this opening between the purse handles. So stitch one side completely through, and on the other side, leave about a 2-3" gap in the stitching smack dab in the middle.

Press the seam out.

Now here comes the fun part. You can embellish these in so many different ways. I chose cloth yo-yos and vintage and new buttons from my stash. There are tons of tutes on yoyos, so I'm not going to get into that too much. You can also use small bits of trim, lace, buttons, ribbon, etc. The sky is the limit, so have fun with it!

If you want to do the yoyo, I just stitched them down with a button over the top, and used my machine to do the heavy lifting. If your machine doesn't have a button program, just stitch by hand.

You want to do all your embellishing before you move on to the next stage, which is putting it all together.

Place right sides together, aligning the top seam exactly. Stitch a rectangle all the way around. I used 1/4" seams so there's very little waste.

Remember, the opening is at the top of your purse, so you can make a complete rectangle.

This part will be the hardest to explain, but not at all hard to do. Take one corner of the rectangle, and pinch so that the seams of the sides are pushed together. You are forming a gusset to give the purse a little depth. Match the seams as best you can, and pin. Repeat for all four corners.

You'll have something that looks like this.

I usually eyeball this part, but for the sake of accuracy, take your straight edge again and measure 1 1/2" in from the point of the corner, and draw a straight line with disappearing marker or tailor's chalk.

Stitch directly over that line, and repeat for all four corners.

Cut away the excess fabric on all four corners.

Turn your purse so that the right sides are facing out. Push one side into the other to form your purse, taking special care on the bottom seam, pushing the gussets into place. Press the top edge where the handles are, and line up the seam allowances on the small opening.

Topstitch the top edge, so that you don't have any messy hand sewing to do.

Believe it or not, YOU ARE DONE! I not only love these as little girl purses, but by just changing the size, you could make some really fun little book bags, gift bags, or wine bags too.

Let me know if something isn't clear, have fun, and happy sewing!

~Melissa
Salt Lake City, UT

Invasion of the Purses

2009-12-05T13:15:00.006-05:00

Well, it had to happen sometime. The mound of fabric pieces too small to make a dress with, but too big to just give up on, was growing larger by the day. If you sew clothing, you have some idea of the proportions of which I speak. We are talking a good shelf full of smaller pieces that weren't going away, but were cluttering up the view so to speak.

For my show a few weeks ago in Concord, NH, I decided that something had to be done. And it's always a good idea to offer a variety of price points so that people can commit to a little something instead of a big something. My solution to both challenges is the little purse, new to my shop.

These are so fun to put together and very easy to embellish. I try to pick out three coordinates; two for the purse itself and one for the handles. The trick is finding pieces of fabric that will all work together in the sizes I need. And of course I can't leave it just plain, so I decided to go through my vintage button collection and add to the fun little yo-yo's on one side.

Oh, I know I'm certainly not the first one to make a little girl purse, but watching my daughter pick one out for herself was tons of fun. So the only trick now is keeping them out of her sight just in case she decides to help herself to all the other lovely colors.

I may do a tutorial on this if anyone is interested, just comment and let me know. No advanced sewing skills required, I promise. And no piping this time...

~Kansas City, MO
Melissa

Free Shipping at little girl Pearl!

2009-11-27T12:10:00.002-05:00

That's right, I just can't let this madness go without jumping in. I'll be offering free worldwide shipping on every in stock size in my shop through Monday.

In stock only, but there are plenty of styles from which to choose. Whew, re-editing all those listings was a bit of work I tell you! Here's the link.

Have a great weekend everyone, and happy shopping. I know for sure I will not be among you as this shopping weekend makes me a bit of a lunatic. Way too many people for me...

Still in Connecticut,
Melissa

Hatchet Job

2009-11-24T19:25:00.005-05:00

So, in my defense, I wasn't at home. My wonderful husband was in charge, and happened to be outside while P. was watching a video, and didn't even notice her hair until I came home that evening. That's how observant he is...

Actually, this works to my favor when I go shopping and overdo it, but again I digress. And he really is wonderful, I wasn't being facetious.

Here she is in all her glory. We'll be going to an actual hair stylist sometime next week to see what can be done. She told her pre-K teacher today that I almost cried, which is mostly true, but also faked to impress upon her that she did something of which I disapproved. Hopefully I made some kind of impression on her brain so that we don't go through this again next year.

I'm thinking if we maybe just keep the bangs, she won't feel the need to snip some more. Argh.

~Traveling to Connecticut for the next couple days,

Happy Thanksgiving!

Melissa

Hair and Scissors

2009-11-23T17:24:00.002-05:00

You know where I'm going with that title, right?

The P. chopped off her hair yesterday during an unsupervised moment. Again.

We went through the same thing last year, and her hair was finally all one length. But not for long. Pics tomorrow. Ugh.

~Melissa

Crafts at the Capitol

2009-11-20T12:15:00.002-05:00

I'll be in Concord, NH for Crafts at the Capitol, tomorrow and Sunday, 10-5. Hope to see you there at the Capitol Center for the Arts!

Pockets, pockets

2009-11-15T12:34:00.005-05:00

I've been on a pocket kick lately. If you've checked out my etsy shop recently, you've surely noticed. Pants pockets, elephant pockets, squirrel and dog pockets, and some strawberry pockets too. The P. is constantly picking up various treasures in the woods (her latest thing is acorn tops), and I don't always want them in MY pockets!

My latest is the pocket pants. I want to do these in different colors, but for now they are available in the softest pink corduroy, with a bit of bijoux on the pocket flap. And they fit! My child is not exactly petite, so finding pants for her can be challenging. I can just forget about Old Navy. Actually it makes me kind of sad that they are starting them down the skinny mini route at age 3, but I digress.

Short and sweet today, but just wanted to mention that I'll be at the Capitol Center for the Arts in downtown Concord, NH on Nov. 21 and 22. If you're a New Hampshirite, see you there!

Bursting to tell you...

2009-10-31T15:40:00.007-04:00

OK, I'm done. I can't wait one more day to let you in on my secret. I just didn't want to jinx anything, you know? Drum roll please...

little girl Pearl is going to be in Woman's World Magazine!!!

Here's how it happened. I wandered into the Etsy forums one day this past summer, and noticed a post from Adam in admin. The title was press opportunity, and as it turned out two national magazines were looking for businesses geared to different demographics. "Magazine B" was a better fit for me, so I submitted a one paragraph essay on how I started my business.

You know, I had my daughter, wanted to dress her in cute things, couldn't find any I couldn't do better myself, started making them, people asked where I found them, etc., etc.

So, I promptly forgot about it until I received a call from a writer at Woman's World who loved my story, and voila, after a phone interview and a photographer came to my house (more on that in a minute), it should be in the November 16th issue! Which means that it will be on check out stands on November 9th.

Oh man. So, remember back to me having to clean my house for three days straight? Yep. A photographer who was contracted by the magazine came to my freshly neatened home to take photos of my workspace. Ah, there's the rub. My workspace is also pleasingly cluttered, and in an unfinished basement. It's true. This would not do.

So I staged a nice little corner of the living room with a few bolts, my sewing machine, and who else but the P. and her best friend B. Mine was of course the one trying to hide, and her best friend stealing the show all the while. I wish I could share those pictures, but alas they don't belong to me. I was able to take a pic of "my workspace" though, just to share.

I am thrilled beyond belief, a little nervous (certainly about the picture, hoping I don't look too cheesy), and so excited about the whole thing.

So check out Woman's World on the 9th, and know that my house NEVER looks that good. Take heart.

From Minneapolis,
~Melissa

Halloween '09

2009-10-28T20:00:00.004-04:00

My child, my child.

She is truly something.

Why you ask?? Last year, a scary bat. This year a blue coyote.

Coyote? A blue coyote?? Honestly, I don't know where she gets this stuff from.

I was a pretty normal trick or treater. I got hand me down costumes for the most part. One I distinctly remember was an ice skater where I actually wore my skates and guards. Walking around in ice skates was challenging after awhile. I was a squaw, a princess, a witch.

My daughter?? A blue coyote.

Actually, I love her originality. No one else is gonna be a blue coyote for sure. There will be 50 Cinderella's walking around but only one blue coyote.

For all other kids out there that want to be a blue coyote, I used McCall's 5956. It's pretty generous as you can tell. Blue fleece from JoAnn's, Kaffe Fassett Sludge paperweight for the ears.

Maybe next year we can use it again, and just change out the hood. She's already talking about being a blue hippopotamus. Hmmm.

From New Hampshire,
~Melissa

I won't be at SOWA...

2009-10-18T10:23:00.002-04:00

Sorry for the false alarm everyone. I had every intention of going, even if it was a little soggy. But when I saw that it was going to be torrential rain with highs in the 40's, even I'm not that diehard. I really did want to go, but the hassle of getting everything wet, again, just didn't make sense.

I will definitely be going ahead with more dates next summer though, so stay tuned for that.

I'll be at SOWA...

2009-10-17T08:29:00.002-04:00

Tomorrow!! Come join me if you're in the Boston area. Click here for more information and directions. See you there!

Quilt Market, Houston '09, Part 2

2009-10-15T10:32:00.008-04:00

Without further ado...

Next up was Amy Butler herself, who is even more beautiful in person. And so nice too. I felt a bit conspicuous, because I happened to be wearing one of my gored skirts made from her nigella line. I think at least 20 people stopped me to ask what pattern I’d used. Too funny. Anyway, it was great to see her new line in person, because the photos don’t do it justice. I’m loving the navy blue and (you guessed it) lilac color palette. I am anxious to get some home dec weight too. Her booth was very inspiring and gorgeous as is inevitable.

I also stumbled on Michelle from Cloud9 Fabrics. I had seen this fabric on several coops, but didn’t end up purchasing any at the time. The only reason being I already have gobs of fabric, and I have to cut myself off at a certain point. But I gotta tell you that I am regretting that decision. It’s SO soft and lovely. It’s certified organic, and is manufactured to GOTS standards, so no nasty chemicals or heavy metals. The yellow polka dot was my very favorite, so I may have to splurge on this in the future.

Finally, Sandi Henderson’s Meadowsweet, and Heather Bailey’s Nicey Jane. I was really glad to have the chance to see these up close. I am really psyched that Sandi decided to carry the henna garden print through to this collection, because it has so much potential as a great coordinate. My favorite was the melon colorway, but I love the others as well. Heather’s new line is so soft and sweet, and has her signature large scale florals, along with some great retro prints. It should be a lot of fun to work with.

The Market was also a great chance for me to touch base with the button distributors. I have had quite a bit of angst regarding the CPSIA, and am totally relieved that both Dill Buttons and JHB have decided to test, and have all the necessary paperwork on hand. I realize the law is not written with component testing in mind, but I at least feel that I will be covered and that cooler heads will eventually prevail in Congress. This has been a major worry for me, and I feel that it is finally resolved (somewhat).

So, I apologize for the length of this post, but if you’ve ever been to the Quilt Market, you will realize immediately that I really have only described the highlights, and there was so much more there to see. I haven’t even mentioned trims and ribbons, which really deserves a post unto itself. So, if you ever get the chance to go, don’t hesitate. Go be inspired, and do not miss the special exhibitions at the far end of the hall where they show museum quality quilts and fiber arts.

From Atlanta,
~Melissa

Quilt Market '09, Houston, Part 1

2009-10-12T14:44:00.011-04:00

I hesitated to say anything because there was a bit of uncertainty about me actually making it down to Quilt Market in Houston this past weekend, but indeed I went. Wow. My head is still spinning. Honestly, even though I was dead tired I didn’t really sleep all that well with all the ideas flashing through my mind. So, for all of you here is the low down on what I saw. I’m going to break this up into two posts, because there is way too much information for just one!

First off, I just have to say that this was my first Market, so I didn’t really know what to expect at all. I knew a lot of the designers would be there, which was my main reason for going. Most fabric people are tactile, and I am no exception. I know in my head that it’s quilting cotton, but somehow just feeling the fabric gives you another level of inspiration that is irreplaceable.

That being said I have to start off with Anna Maria Horner. My hero. Not only is she a delight, but she is so utterly talented. And busy! She happened to have baby Roman there when I stopped in, and what a little cutie. Her new line is printed on cotton voile (rhymes with toile), and to be honest before feeling it in person, I was a little worried. How would it be to work with thinner fabric? Would it be a challenge to sew? Body? Drape? I’m here to tell you that this stuff is gorgeous. Gorgeous. And soft, too. The prints are darling, and she is incorporating the most fabulous shade of sophisticated lilac. Did I mention soft?

They are producing solid colors as well to coordinate with all the prints, and also a bit of texture with dobby. The absolute must have on my list is the dobby stripe in lilac. It’s amazing, and I am imagining all sorts of ways to use it.

Talk about soft, the flannel collection is to die for. I’m glad the P. is as old as she is, but while looking at this fabric, I yearned for her to be a baby again. It would be absolutely perfect for a baby blanket, and pajamas, etc. Come to think of it, I’ll be ordering a little bit for P.J.’s for her. I think some lounge pants out of this would be fabulous too. Hmmm, maybe I might need more than I thought!

So, here is what totally blew me away. When I introduced myself to Anna Maria, she described my daughter to a tee! I love to post my creations on her flickr groups for each fabric collection, and as it turns out she remembered me! What a thrill. Honestly, I felt a bit dorky, being star struck and all, but who cares, right? I’m allowed to be a bit dorky at quilt market. And her assistant Ally is just a gem and was so helpful. I am so envious that she gets to work in that studio all day.

My next stop was to Kokka fabrics from Japan. Etsuko Furuya’s new fabrics for the echino line are just utterly fabulous. I was going to wait to order, but just couldn’t. And guess what? There is purple in my future!! I have had so many of my customers request lilacs and purples, and there just has not been that much out there. So I am completely thrilled that the designers have finally delved into this wonderful color palette.

And I even got to meet and chat with Ms. Furuya herself. Decked out in a fabulous bright purple tunic, she was very, very sweet. I tried out my rusty Japanese, and felt even more dorky than when meeting with Anna Maria. I should have postponed my meeting with her because as the day went on, I was able to chat more and more in Japanese with the Lecien and Kokka reps, and would have been a lot less intimidated if I had had some practice first. At any rate she was incredibly gracious, and I can’t wait to get my hot little hands on those bolts.

So, I'm going to tantalize you and hang on to Amy Butler and all the rest in part 2, but I promise not to keep you all waiting for too long.

From Minneapolis/St. Paul, where it is snowing. For real.
~Melissa

The Traditionalist (and a tutorial!)

2009-09-25T15:58:00.014-04:00

So, last week I was walking in the woods, and was thinking about flannel and tartan. And here is the result!

I love the traditional look of this jumper. It has a simple design that I enhanced with a little piping and some well placed buttons. I chose black watch plaid on the cream flannel so that it would pop. This dress has growth pleats to which I added tartan ribbon. Growth pleats are just horizontal pleats that are usually about an 1" to 1 1/2" inches in width. It will be in my etsy shop soon.

Anyway, I liked it so much that I decided to make it in red as well, using some European brushed twill that I've had for awhile. Not only that, but I thought it would be nice to share my technique of piping insertion in the yoke, so here goes.

A disclaimer: I am not a sewing expert, so if anyone can offer some more advice, it is much appreciated. These are simply my techniques for working with piping.

So, the first thing you want to do is to choose a simple jumper pattern with a separate yoke. I chose to make the design 'Louise' from Children's Corner. This jumper features buttons down the back, a full skirt, and growth pleats.

Decide which size you will be using. For the red dress I used a size 2. Roughly cut out your pattern piece for the front yoke and then cut a piece of the yoke fabric that is slightly wider than double the yoke width. You want to leave enough extra fabric to compensate for the seam allowances when you stitch down the piping.

The next step is to prepare your piping. I use the Darr ruler and cut off the excess piping allowance. My seams are 1/4", so if yours are wider, you would want to plan accordingly.

Put wondertape on one side. This allows you to place the piping exactly where you want it, without the hassle of using pins. It will wash away when you wash the garment.

Try to place the piping to the slight left or right of center. This doesn't matter all that much because you will select the center front line after the piping is inserted. Stitch straight down the piping directly over the thread used to make the piping itself.

When you have completed that, you simply fold the fabric over the seam allowance of the piping, right sides together. Make sure there is no gap between the piping seam allowance and the fabric itself. In order to keep the grain correct, you have to make sure it's pretty tight. Then stitch just barely to the left of your original stitch line, "squeezing" the piping, and making sure that none of the other threads are showing.

Open the fabric piece up again and press lightly.

Now for the second line of piping. You want the seam allowances to face the other direction. So if your piping seam allowance lay to the right previously, this time you want it to lay to the left, and vice versa. I want my piping to be about two inches apart, so I carefully measure all the way down as I put it into place. Stitch as before.

It will look like this as you stitch the second side.

Press again, making sure the seam allowances lay out from the center.

Now you want to fold your fabric piece so that the two lines of piping match up, so I put right sides together. You want to make sure that the two lines are directly over each other. If it's easier to pin them together, then do so. The fold of the fabric becomes the center front, and then lay your pattern piece as indicated on the fold line.

This pattern requires a lining, so I cut them out at the same time.

When you are done, your piece should look like this. Two lines of piping centered on the center of the yoke. Now just use this piece like you would have used a normal piece of fabric. Just be sure to keep the seam allowances flattened the way they were pressed.

I'm quite pleased with the cute, traditional look, and this is the finished project.

Happy sewing!

From New Hampshire,
~Melissa

The Woods

2009-09-16T18:57:00.006-04:00

Today I just needed a break. I finished up an order this morning, and instead of sewing until pick-up time, I just had to get the dog out for a hike on a glorious late summer day.

I'm inspired by lots of different things. The covers of vintage children's patterns, other seamstresses, and the actual fabrics themselves. But nothing quite gets my juices flowing like a walk in the woods.

There must be something about repetitive motion that frees the brain for creativity. It happens to me when I am knitting too. Your hands or feet get so involved in the activity that your mind gets to rove. Today I was looking at the rocks on the ground and thinking about how a customer of mine was wondering about using the color gray. I don't happen to have anything in gray, but I started thinking about gray flannel and how an interesting combination might be to add a little tartan plaid.

But then I decided that rather than use gray which I don't have, I should use what I already have, which happens to be a cream flannel. I designed the entire thing in my head as I looked at the leaves just starting to turn.

So, my question to you is this: in what unexpected ways are you inspired? Tell me about them and maybe I'll try them out myself.

Now, where is that cream flannel?

Brain Implosion and Other Assorted Goings-On

2009-09-14T09:45:00.016-04:00

Brain implosion?? Yes, yes, it's true. I have so much going on in my head these last few weeks that I thought this might actually happen to me. My daughter's first day of pre-K, a craft show, a camping trip, orders at little girl Pearl, extra training for the Delta merger, and more.

Can someone please, please sell me some extra hours of the day? Because the insomnia is great, but it's not quite cutting it. I will pay big bucks, I swear.

All right, let me back up a bit. There is a little something going on for "little girl Pearl", but I cannot jinx it, so suffice it to say that my house needed a major cleaning this week. And I mean MAJOR! If you follow my blog you know that I travel every week, I sew when my daughter is at school, and cook when dinner rolls around in the evening. This does not leave much time for the day-to-day upkeep, let alone the top to bottom sweep that houses require when you have a kid, a black dog, and two adults who have other priorities that don't require picking up a mop.

Luckily for us Augie is not a lab. But he still sheds, I assure you, and those little black hairs along with the dust do create a bit of a mess. So my wonderful "whirlwind cleaner" Mom came over last week to help me focus on the task without being overwhelmed by the monstrosity of our job. I'm seriously not joking. The clutter was everywhere, and it took us the entire day to just finish the upstairs bedrooms and get a start on the living area downstairs. But it gleams, so I thank you Mom because I wouldn't have even known where to start.

My husband finally finished the cubbies in our mudroom storage area so that we could get all the shoes and gear off the floor. This project has been 3 years in the making, and I am so, so relieved it's finished. A place for the mail, car keys, and the detritus of daily life finally have a designated space so they don't wind up on the island in the kitchen. You know what I'm talking about don't you?? The junk mail, bills, etc. always seem to wind up in the kitchen, and I am so hoping this doesn't happen anymore.

And we went camping. Yep, perfect timing. Actually weather-wise it was phenomenal. We went Down East Maine, past Acadia National Park through Machias, Lubec, and Cutler. We saw seals, porpoises, eagles, sea birds, beautiful scenery, and lots of Maine coast. What a great time, and we are looking forward to going again.

This was taken as the moon was rising over our campground spot, right on the headland in Milbridge.

Seal in Reversing Falls in Cobscook Bay

View from Boot Cove trail

A black dog on a black beach

View from Hamilton Cove

West Quoddy Lighthouse in Lubec, Maine
The Easternmost point in the U.S.

Lobster traps in Jonesport, Maine

A gear laden girl

All tuckered out

So yes, we had a great trip, but I had 300 emails waiting for me upon my return to the world of high speed. And all the camping gear added to our clutter-filled mudroom. But as everything was out it was a great chance for us to get organized, and now our house is clean. For at least 5 minutes.

Sorry to be so cryptic in this post, but just keep your fingers crossed for me, and as soon as I can I'll let you know what's happening.

From Detroit,
~Melissa

Etsuko Furuya, will you design exclusively for me??

2009-08-29T15:33:00.009-04:00

birds and berries outfit, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Only half joking there with my title. If I could afford to hire this woman, I would do it. And she doesn't even have to learn English because I speak some Japanese.

I'm in awe, I'm in love, I'm in lust with her designs. This is only the most recent fabric I've acquired of hers. There have been others that I wish I could get my hands on again. Most specifically this one.

It's the first fabric I encountered of hers and I was smitten from the start. There's just something about its funky vibe, retro feel, and color choices that I find irresistible. And judging by how many of these dresses I made, you all felt the same way.

The stripe that went along with that collection was amazing too. My daughter still uses the jumper as a top with a pair of jeans. The colors were so beautiful.

I loved the whole ladybug series, and all the colorways of the bird fabric. Unbelieveable.

Next to come was the vespa overalls which I think are great for boys.

My most recent obsession is this gorgeous double gauze fabric that has the most amazing hand.

I love the softness of the fabric coupled with those gorgeous colors. I've already tried three different patterns with this fabric, but am happiest with the little tunic design from Farbenmix, and the peasant dress with empire styling. Both have just the right amount of gathering, but not too much that you can't see the pattern. Perfection. And it fits the P.'s desire for as much blue clothing as possible. Oh, and she informed me that she likes purple too!

From Nashville,
~Melissa

SOWA and more...

2009-08-24T12:00:00.007-04:00

SOWA (The South End Open Market to you) was great! Sorry, no pics at all, but you didn't really want to see me sweat buckets did you? I'm not even joking. At the end of the day I couldn't figure out what this grit-like substance on my face was until I splashed off and tasted the salt. It was that hot. And did I mention humid? But it was still great, and I met lots of people and had tons of fun. My daughter made a cameo appearance, and luckily just that because she's a bit of a whirlwind, and hates for me to sell "her" dresses. Too funny.

The more part is that I have a new line of BIG GIRL SKIRTS! They are made from Amy Butler's Nigella fabric, mainly in the wood fern and passion vine prints. They are fun, flirty, and oh so comfortable. Yet you still look great either going to work or going out in the evening. I have even made myself a couple, and am basically wearing them everyday in the heat. I promise to give you some sneak peeks in the next few days. In my lapsed weight watcher form, I refuse to have a pic of myself, but hopefully one of my thin friends will oblige soon. They will be listed in my etsy shop soon.

I've also been working on some new fall outfits, and I can't wait to show them off. OK, that's enough writing without illustrative pictures.

Coming to you from Minneapolis,
~Melissa

Crazy Revisited

2009-08-14T08:53:00.002-04:00

sneak peek, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Not really crazy, but you know, "what are you thinking?" crazy. You'll see what I mean in a sec.

I have been toying with this design for over a year now. I actually attempted it some time last Spring, but set it aside as needing to be reworked. I never did get back to it. Let me explain.

I am inspired in lots of different ways. Like most people who have a fabric addiction, it starts there. But what to do with all of those colors and textures?? In my flight attendant job, I see lots of fashion, good, bad, and ugly. And really, let's face it, most of it is ugly. Occasionally you see the gorgeously put together woman, but most of the time it's pajama bottoms and crocs. Seriously. In public.

But one day this gal had on a white top that was made up of lots of bias tubes (I think) set on the diagonal. It was a simple shirt really, but the detail made it interesting. So this sets off the percolating in my brain, and I think to myself, what if I did that on a smaller scale?? Vertical bias tubes of different coordinating fabrics? The easiest way to accomplish that, or so I thought, would be to make single fold bias tape.

The problem, of course is that when I stitched them down to the bodice, I didn't catch all of the fabric, and when washed, it would've basically come apart. I was pretty distressed because I had spent virtually the entire day creating three of these dresses in different sizes for a show in New York. They still sit on my pile of half-finished enterprises.

Fast forward about a year, and this idea had not gone away. The truth is that I really liked the way it looked. It was totally different from anything else I'd seen, and I knew it could be done. So...for fall I decided to do a pink and brown combination with a soft pink corduroy for the skirt. I chose 5 different fabrics, and gave my rotary cutter a workout cutting bias strips. I sewed the right sides together, turned and pressed. Then, starting in the center of one side of the bodice, I stitched them in the center, so that there is sort of a "flap" look to them.

I'm pretty darn pleased with the result, and I'd love to make more in different colors. I quite like the all pink version from before, and it would be cool to do one in red. Any other color suggestions?? Because, you know, I have all sorts of time on my hands...

Danger: Cute Kid Story

2009-07-31T12:51:00.003-04:00

And a brief one at that, but it just made me giggle.

The other day my child was dressed up in her Cinderella outfit, a perennial favorite. She comes over to me and says, "Mommy, I don't have a magic wand. Do you think we could get one at the magic wand store?" Oh man, she can crack me up some days. What's your favorite cute kid story of the day?

~Melissa, in Portland, OR

A Recipe

2009-07-21T19:28:00.007-04:00

At least all this cool, rainy weather is good for something.

I just picked a nice little batch of shelling peas from our garden in order to make one of our favorite family dishes. I have struggled with my weight my whole life, and am currently a lapsed member of weight watchers. The following comes from one of my many cookbooks. It is fast, easy, and tasty even for the littlest in your family.

Tortellini with Peas and Proscuitto in a Creamy Sauce

½ lb. of refrigerated tortellini
1 c. peas (frozen or fresh)
¼ lb deli-sliced prosciutto, chopped
2 tbsp. flour
1 c whole milk (I use skim because it’s what I have on hand, and put a dash of half and half in)

½ c. grated parmesan (I use the stuff that comes from the cheese counter, not Kraft’s)
½ tsp. pepper or to taste

Cook the tortellini according to package instructions, putting the peas in for the last 2 minutes of cooking.

Meanwhile coat a non-stick pan with cooking spray, and add the chopped prosciutto. Cook for about 2-3 min. Remove the meat and save for later. Whisk together the milk and flour and add to the skillet. Cook until thickened (this only takes a few minutes on my gas stove), stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese and pepper. Add the proscuitto, cooked tortellini and peas.

Dinner is served!

This makes 4 light servings, is 6 pts. per serving. 358 calories (with whole milk), 4g fiber, and 6g fat.

Sewing what I shouldn't be sewing...

2009-07-18T10:52:00.008-04:00

I know, I know, I ‘m supposed to be designing for the fall, but all I seem to want to do is use pretty fabrics and make sundresses! All in a climate that has not been conducive to wearing them. We have had the rainiest summer I can remember. And it’s been chilly too. Only a few days have reached 80. Most of the time we are in the 60’s or low 70’s. And maybe that’s the point. I can’t design for the fall, because I haven’t put her in enough sundresses. But finally last week we had a beautiful day, and I had just received three new fabrics in the mail.

Ordinarily I have to think of combinations for a little while, but this one practically fell into my lap (or out of the parcel as it were). I just happened to order two Heather Bailey fabrics, and one from Anna Maria Horner. And there it was. As soon as I opened up the package, I “saw” the dress. Snappy yellow straps, yellow piping, aqua print bodice, and what I am calling the “under the sea” print. I have no idea what Anna Maria called her design, but to me it looks like brightly colored kelp, coral, and sea anemones in the shape of flowers. I wasn’t sure about it from the pictures on the web, but in person it is glorious.

So, we took it out for a test run at our local farmer’s market. Which, by the way has the most extraordinary donuts ever; just the right amount of squishy doughy texture, super fine sugar, and ever so slightly crisp on the outside. But I digress. She had to pet the biggest dog I have ever seen, which stood just as tall as she, and the other lab mix old girl. And had to run around every park bench she saw, whilst eating said donut. Sit still? Oh no, not her.

So, after greeting a few neighbors, my husband and child headed to the beach, and me to Denver. It’s so hard to go to work on one of the few nice weather days, but at least it wasn’t a sewing day, which is way harder to forego to be outside. Today I’m headed to Anchorage for some of the freshest halibut ever, nice and fried. And a beer. And a view of the bay. You jealous yet? OK, I’ll stop.

And I have all my pattern stuff with me, and promise to be good and set the sundresses aside for daydreaming in winter…

Want to see?

2009-07-13T00:20:00.003-04:00

I felt like a proud parent, putting it all together. Our crazy umbrella and yet to be painted dowel all properly clothed, just like I always knew it would look (wink, wink). Even if it took us three tries to get there. So without further ado...

And they're still not completely finished. Each dowel will get a hat and has to be painted too. I need 30 hours in every day! And here are my adventures in applique. I haven't done a lot of this, but it was FUN! Like decorating with scissors and thread. I'm pretty thrilled with how they turned out, so there will be more...

Coming to you from Denver, Colorado where it is way past my bedtime...

A little blog experimentation

2009-07-10T07:47:00.002-04:00

As if you hadn't noticed, I'm experimenting with background wallpaper patterns for my blog from www.squidfingers.com. Let me know what you think...

I wasn't kidding...

2009-07-09T07:52:00.012-04:00

when I said I had made a LOT of these skirts...

So, now the issue becomes how to display them at a show. I had some ideas right away as I was making them, and now it's time to show you just how ridiculously yankee we get around here. By yankee I mean cheap of course...

My husband is an engineer, and he had the best idea almost immediately, but no, no, I couldn't just go with it. I had to "devise some kind of system" to put these on display. My first thought was wire hangars. If I could bend them into some kind of spoke system, and somehow twist them together and nail them into a dowel, and, and, and...you guessed it. Total disaster.

My next thought was to use wire. It'd be easier, right?? So the thought process here was to get some metal rings which would slide over a dowel, and make a spoke system that would then attach to a ring below. Here is how far I got on this idea before total abandonment...

The problem was that the wire kept sliding around the ring, making it impossible to support the skirt in any kind of meaningful way. And I can just see myself futzing with the display every time someone wanted to look at the skirt. Unacceptable.

We then thought that something rigid might work. We have some foam laying around, and thought that by pushing the wire up through the foam and down the other side, we could create, you guessed it, a spoke system for support. This may have worked other than that the foam kept sliding down the dowel, and the spokes weren't perfectly symmetric. Which leads me back to my engineer husband who suggested a modified umbrella.

Oh, I wish I had just started with this idea in the first place...I couldn't find any children's umbrellas at my local drug store (our town's version of a five and dime), but I did come up with these trusty large ones. I took off the fabric, saved the plastic doo-gigs on the end so that no one gets hurt, cut off about 6 inches of frame, and voila...

Eventually, there will be two holes in the base; one to hold the umbrella handle, and one right next to it to hold a larger dowel with a cross-piece for a top. I anticipate adventures in applique later today. The larger dowel will fit through the spokes of the umbrella so that when the top comes down, it'll cover up the top piece.

Oh sure, I could have purchased some dress forms that would accomplish the same thing a whole lot quicker, but they're expensive, heavy, and that's just not the "yankee" way.

Note to self: listen to your engineer husband more often.

The day of the twirl skirt...

2009-07-03T20:33:00.008-04:00

Actually, more like two days of twirl skirts.

I have a cold. A really bad one. The kind where you think your head might explode from the pressure, you are coughing up a lung, and you can't breathe. Just in time for a rainy 4th of July...

But I had sewing days, and you know how it is. These days aren't often enough, and I wanted to take advantage. I was planning on some pattern work this week, but I just couldn't do it. My brain was like that commercial where the woman's head is sort of floating above her body. I am not actually taking anything other than a little ibuprofen at night, but I still feel disjointed.

I am totally inspired by Heather Bailey's blog, and saw an adorable twirl skirt using her fabrics. I really wanted to try this out because the cutting portion is just a series of rectangles and a little bias. Simple. But totally beautiful. So, I made a LOT of them. And I am getting an idea for displaying at markets in my sinus congested head. The only question is whether to just applique a t-shirt to coordinate or make the top myself. What would you do?

So, my daughter is bewitched...

And what little girl wouldn't be?

It Didn't Rain on our Parade...

2009-06-25T07:13:00.007-04:00

Or at least not on our Arts Market, and if you live in New England, you know this was a bit of a miracle. I did another show last Saturday, and had a wonderful time as usual. I only tweaked my display a little, but here is a picture anyway...

I had a wonderful spot right up front in the center aisle, so it was easy for folks to move around.

I have to talk up a couple of local NH sellers that do amazing work. First, my fellow Etsy seller, Erica Walker; I love her silver jewelry. She has some beautiful earrings that totally appeal to me because they are so versatile. And you must check out her new Mod Ring design. Too cool for the tragically hip.

The second is Becky Oh! Handbags. I first stumbled across Becky from Trunkt shortly after I was accepted. Her aesthetic is so similar to mine, and we could’ve talked fabric all afternoon had we not had to man our booths. I ended up buying my own Becky Oh! Handbag, and I couldn’t be more pleased. She makes her own patterns, and her color choices are sublime. The workmanship is topnotch, and I can’t wait to bring my own little purse out on a layover. Thanks Becky!

The last New Hampshire gal that I want to mention is Patty from L&B Accessories. If you want a beautifully made wallet (or handbag for that matter), Patty is your girl. Her stitching is perfect (trust me, I looked on my own wallet), and she is now doing her own embroidery designs, so they are unique. We miss Patty at the Market, but she has been busy in her Etsy shop, so that’s a good thing!

In other craft show notes, I was just accepted to the SOWA Market in Boston, and couldn't be more excited. I have no idea which Sundays I might go just yet, but I'll keep you posted.

Sad news, it appears as though a bear or raccoon has disturbed our poor mother Robin's nest, and the eggs are gone. I'm happy to have my truck back, but sad that we couldn't hear those little baby birds waiting for their mother to return with some food. I'm hoping she has enough time to make a new nest in a safer spot, and lay a new clutch of eggs. We haven't broken the news to our daughter, but she has been pretty good about these sorts of things in the past. We do live in the woods after all, and these things happen.

Written from our mosquito infested patch of forest in New Hampshire,
~Melissa

Oodles of Fabric Goodness

2009-06-22T08:03:00.008-04:00

Dateline Los Angeles-

I’ll answer your question right now…no famous people on my flight today. I swear though there was one guy that looked a whole lot like “Benny” from L.A. Law, but I don’t think it was him. The hair was all wrong.

But what I really want to write about is FABRIC! What else? I get very excited when I receive an especially large shipment, even if I’ve already seen the fabric in person. But this was even more fun than that because I ordered some things I hadn’t yet seen with my own eyes. I know we’ve all had the experience of ordering online, only to be completely disappointed with the colors when the yardage shows up on our doorstop. Gladly, this was not to be.

I am trying to put together my line for the fall, and it isn’t coming as easy as the Spring/Summer collection. I think it’s because summer has barely started, and I’m trying to use more somber colors and richer jewel tones. Ordinarily I have no problems with color saturation, but the fabrics that I’m dying to use are not exactly ‘kid fare’.

Two of the fabrics I am working with are from Kaffe Fassett. I seriously have a weak spot for his fabrics, but they are a little tricky sometimes. The two I’m talking about are the bubble bloom colorways of dusk and teal. I am deeply in love, and yet I have “designer’s block.” I think if I just sit with them for awhile, and ponder the possibilities, something fabulous will come…

Meanwhile, Etsuko Furuya’s new fabrics are on their way, and you may have already seen my preview on flickr. I decided to do a reversible asymmetric with her fabrics, coupled with some new Alexander Henry on the reverse. I love the heavier weight of Etsuko’s fabrics for the fall. Just throw on a turtleneck and some leggings, and you’re set.

Finally, I am completely inspired by the brown and gold polka dot from Anna Maria Horner. It’s not new, but it’s new to me, and I am smitten. I’m thinking it’s going to be a great accent for some new designs I have percolating in my brain.

Being the tactile/sight driven person that I am, I have to see a fabric first before I know what I want to do with it. There are so many possibilities (and so little time!), but having these in hand is making it much easier to figure out what to do with them. Happy designing!

~Melissa

Robin's Egg Blue

2009-06-14T19:31:00.005-04:00

As soon as you read my title, you had an image of the color in your mind, didn't you. That gorgeous color that isn't quite blue, isn't quite green. I suppose I had seen an actual robin's egg somewhere along the line, but in my mind's eye, it wasn't quite so vivid.

I had planned to get a load of mulch in our truck at some point in the next couple weeks, because I have been doing WAY too much weeding. After building our house 3 years ago, we finally had the time to put in some gardens and a lawn this year. The gardens are taking off, but need a load of mulch, and it's just the job for our old rusty truck. But there's one problem...

A momma robin has decided that the wheel well is the perfect place for her nest. My husband first noticed it this afternoon, while doing some projects outside. My daughter and I came running, and couldn't believe that this little bird would find a truck tire to be a hospitable place, but I suppose there's no accounting for reason and logic. We decided to see if there were any eggs in there, and when we pulled it out, lo and behold, three perfectly beautiful eggs.

What to do...

We need our truck, but we love the birds. I decided to do a little research this afternoon. Could we move the nest? Apparently not. When the robins are building the nest, they memorize every aspect of it; not only its location, but also the materials and the placement of them. Not unlike us! So, we've decided they can stay, and I'll be doing a lot more weeding this summer.

And we promise we won't disturb those little eggs again, even just to look at the color...tweet tweet.

Coming to you from my home in New Hampshire, ~Melissa

Craft Show Verticality...

2009-06-02T09:42:00.007-04:00

I've always heard, and thought too, that the best craft show displays take advantage of height. "Think vertical", they'll say. And it's really true. There is only so much space on a table, and if you have a lot of product, like me, you have to use the ether above if you're going to fit it all on that 3'x6' table. Not only that, but using various heights forces your eye to travel around and take in everything that's there.

So that is precisely what I did. I've been thinking about how to incorporate more vertical displays, but just wasn't sure how to go about doing it. When I've gone to other shows lately, I find myself getting sucked into looking more at the displays than the actual items! I get into this analytical mode and think, "Does this draw me in? Does it complement the product? What about the lighting? Is it practical?" When I see a booth that I particularly like, I try to figure out what it is about the display that appeals to me. Is it the product itself or the feeling of the booth? And hey, next time you need an excuse to go to a craft show, just say it's for market research!

A few times I'd seen these dowel structures for holding a knitted sweater, or something of that ilk up off the table. I have always liked the way it looked and decided to make a few of my own. I used two sizes of dowel, one 7/8" and the other 1 1/8". In the larger dowel I drilled a hole 7/8" in diameter right through the middle (this was more or less successful, but be careful not to go through the side of the dowel!) Then I slid it down the smaller dowel and screwed it in to where I wanted it. I then purchased 3 wooden balls and drilled a hole in the bottom of them to put on top of the crossed dowels. Perfect for hats!! I made sure to cover those with fabric just in case I sold out of my hats. I painted them up, and as a base my kind husband chainsawed six birch logs into bases that I drilled for a stand. They are sturdy and earthy and heavy enough not to blow over. Very cool. I painted just the tops of those white, and left the bark au naturel.

I also found this cute little child's chair, for a doll really, in a local antiques shop. It was the inspiration to use for my blouses and skirts. In the past I had all my skirts in the vintage suitcase (which I still love), but I wanted a better way of displaying some of my blouses with the skirts and pants so shoppers could see some of the mix and match options. It was the perfect centerpiece for my favorite outfit, "dainty daisies".

At the last minute I grabbed an old plant stand that had been my grandmother's, and some cake plates to use for my pony tail holders. I love the sort of vintage-y look of it even though it's got a bit of rust. The cake plates were great for elevating and corralling my little covered buttons (they have a life of their own), and also another way of getting those little things up off the table. The plant stand was great for a few other odds and ends like matching bloomers and a pair of pants or two.

You've all seen my antique drying rack before, but it is the neatest thing. It collapses down into nothing, is lightweight, and you can see the dresses because they face out on the rack. It's truly perfect. I found mine on ebay of all places, so maybe there's another one out there for you...

Overall, I wouldn't change a thing with my display. I was completely thrilled with how it looked. I probably need a few more weights just in case things get a little more breezy (that drying rack for instance needs some help when it gets windy). Oh, I know things evolve, and I'll probably have other ideas, but it was very gratifying to see it all come together and get such positive feedback from my customers.

P.S. Coming to you this morning from Fairbanks, Alaska. ~Melissa

Coming Soon to a Tent Near You...

2009-05-22T18:19:00.004-04:00

Can't wait!!! Thanks to muchachaK, aka Katy Brown for all of her hard work in organizing this weekly market in downtown Concord, NH!! Go team!!

Pattern Re-tinkered...

2009-05-21T13:25:00.004-04:00

Believe it or not, I'm actually home in New Hampshire at the moment. At least until Saturday! So I just wasn't happy with the pattern I turned out last week. I liked the overall concept, but I wanted to tinker with the gathering and the back bodice. I'm happy to report that while I was in Detroit over the weekend, I pulled it out and worked on a fix!

The result in blue! I changed the fabric from the heavier home dec weight to a light cotton from Kaffe Fassett, one of my favorite designers. I tried to use this fabric before for my daughter, but made the dress way too small. This time she declared, "it fits perfectly!", and it does. Best thing for her is the twirly factor of course.

The changes I made are subtle, but made a big difference. I added gathering on the front skirt, took out some fullness in the back bodice, and added piping all the way around the seam between the bodice and the skirt. I briefly considered putting rickrack on the lower band, but decided against it. There is so much pattern in the fabric that it didn't really need anything else!

My daughter has been happily wearing her new dress all day, so looks like it's a keeper! Nothing looks crisper in the summer than classic blue and white. I guess I'll have to make another one for my upcoming show in a little over one week! Yipes! Off to get dirty making cement tent weights. Argh...

Pattern in Progress...

2009-05-15T21:00:00.015-04:00

In order to stay productive while I'm on the road, I try to do things that take lots of time, but that don't require scissors!! Alas, TSA isn't real keen on 8" dressmakers. So, my solution is to bring tracing paper, a small ruler, and a few basic patterns that I use to create new ones. Last week I decided to take the tea party dress and change things up.

So, here I am in Orlando, and am mulling over some changes I want to make this week to the pattern I created last week. I've been toying with the idea of crossover straps in the back of a sundress for awhile. I wanted something easy to wear and comfortable. To that end I decided to elasticize the back. I took the front of the tea party bodice, and made it all one piece and then added two straps that button in the back. The back is just a simple rectangle with some extra width to make it easy to pull on and off.

I'm thinking that I added too much "ease" in the back so I'll be making the back width about 2" smaller in this next incarnation. I'm also thinking that the dress is a little schizofrenic in that the front skirt doesn't have any extra fullness, but the back does. So back to the drawing board, except I can't decide whether I want to make a gathered front, or a flat back!! Decisions, decisions. My daughter may have the final say though because she was rather upset that her dress wasn't "twirly"! Ah, the whims of 4 year old girls...

You can see that the bodice has a small curve on the front. This is a perfect place to put a little piping (ah, you know I can't resist). In this case I chose a deep aqua whipstitch piping, and in the next phase I'm going to put this all the way around the back too. I also might add a little bit of rickrack to the bottom of the skirt where it meets the band...or maybe some ribbon...you can never have too many details. Well, you can, but you know what I mean.

In this last picture you can see what I mean by schizo. I love the overall shape of this dress, but I think it needs to either be gathered all the way around, or flat all the way around. Now that I think about it, I'm going to do both. I think that with the heavier home dec fabric that I used here from Anna Maria Horner's drawing room collection, it should probably be flat all the way around. When I make a gathered style, I'll use a lighter weight cotton so that the fullness isn't as heavy.

Either way, I'll be making this a little shorter. I have a tendency to err on the side of longer length because they grow so fast! But sometimes I think it's easier for girls to wear dresses if they don't get in the way of playtime. Because really that's what it's all about anyway...

Fabric Inspiration

2009-05-08T16:18:00.009-04:00

I wish I had had enough time to put together the combinations I have planned in my mind with these fabrics. But let's just say it's been a heck of a week.

I got home from my trip at 2am Tuesday. My daughter decided it was a good idea to wake up at 6:45am, something she never does. I tried to shake out the cobwebs all morning, but neglected to remember that I had brought my sewing machine down to be tuned up the previous Thursday. I didn't even venture into my studio for fear of screwing something up. So we decided to spend the day outside, doing a little physical labor stacking wood. I was ready for a day of sewing on Wednesday.

I went to my studio first thing in the morning to discover that indeed my sewing machine didn't sprout wings and it was a good 40 minute drive to go pick it up. It was still early and I decided I could still salvage a bit of sewing time if I scooted down and back. Yes, you guessed it, it wasn't meant to be. A flat rear tire greeted me at my car! After changing the tire, going to the mechanic, receiving the bad news that it couldn't be saved and I would need 4 new tires (!), I decided to stay at home until I had to pick up my child at pre-school and cut, cut, cut. At least I have 5 dresses cut out and waiting for me when I get home again.

After picking it up Wednesday afternoon, I sat down to get busy early Thursday morning. And IT DIDN'T WORK! It's a conspiracy. So, back down to the repairman. Share your sewing machine tales of woe, it will make me feel a lot better...

So these are the fabrics I picked up last week at G Street. The silk chiffon is going to become a skirt for me! And the green bird fabric from Etsuko Furuya is a total favorite. I picked it up in Portland on the same trip. You should have seen me schlepping about 10 yards of fabric around for 3 days! It wasn't pretty. The orange nubby cotton is very sheer and will be used for accents. The pink herringbone is heavier, and will most likely become a yoke, and the purple cotton/poly blend will be the basis for some fun skirts.

That's right, I'm already thinking about fabrics for fall! It's really hard when the warm weather is just around the corner, but if I don't plan now, I'll be scrambling in July. When I decide on combos, I'll give you all a sneak peek.

The other thing I've been thinking about lately is the CPSIA labeling requirements that will become effective in August. So, more about that soon. Happy Sewing!!

Fabric Store Blues...

2009-05-02T20:43:00.002-04:00

Well, only sort of. I actually scored some beautiful fabrics (pictures will be forthcoming, I promise) today at G Street Fabrics just outside of Washington, D.C.. But it has really changed from the last time I was there which, in all honesty, is about 10 years ago.

That being said, I found some amazing textured fabrics, one in pink herringbone, which I can't wait to use, some cotton jersey in apple green and pink, and the most wonderful nubby orange lightweight cotton that I'll use as an accent here and there. I was also on the lookout for a coordinate to a couple of Japanese fabrics I recently ordered. I'll sneak peek it for you as soon as I get the bolts, but they take a little time...

I spent 3 hours at the fabric store today. Unencumbered by my child and knowing that I had all afternoon there, I spent the first 30 minutes scoping the place out. Next thing was to hone in on some beautiful textured cottons. Finally, I wound up talking to an incredibly helpful employee of the store, Lucia. She was the buyer for at least 15 years, and largely responsible for the amazing selection and quality. And here's where the blues come in. She told me that many, many suppliers in Europe have closed. Beautiful European laces, batistes, piques, etc. are all gone. While the selection of fabrics for seamstresses is still the best outside of New York, I missed touching all those wonderful bolts that I remembered. Oh, I know it's easier and cheaper to buy ready-to-wear, but being the tactile person that I am, I really miss having great quality fabric stores in every town. Sigh...

Anyway, if you go to G Street, ask for Lucia, and be prepared to walk out with way more fabric than you intended to purchase! She talked me into buying a couple yards of a gorgeous silk chiffon print that I have absolutely no idea what to do with!! But I'm sure I'll think of something...

How to Insert Piping in a Collar

2009-04-29T21:02:00.016-04:00

Sometime ago I thought it would be helpful to some of you to see my method of inserting piping into my creations. I LOVE piping, as if you couldn't tell. I have no stamina for ruffles or tiers, but for a bit of piping, I'll do whatever I can to put it here and there. So again, I'm not a sewing expert, but this is how I put piping on just about everything.

First things first. If you have decided to use piping more often, or if you find cutting the seam allowance a real drag, this ruler is a must. It is the DARR Piping Magic Ruler and it has made my life SO much easier. It is a little clear ruler with grooves on the underside. If you need a 5/8" allowance, you just put your piping in that groove, and with a rotary blade, go right down the edge, and it'll give you a perfect seam allowance.

My seam allowance happens to be 1/4", so I put my finished piping in that groove, and took off the excess edge. Perfect. On to my next trick of the trade.

Some of you may know WonderTape from other applications like zippers. I swear by the stuff for piping. WonderTape is a wash-away double sided sticky tape that doesn't gum up your needle. I apply it to one side of my piping seam allowance and voila, no more pinning. Not only that, but it keeps your piping right where you want it when you stitch it down. With pins, the piping still wants to wiggle around a bit. With the tape, that problem is solved.

Apply it to one side of your piping. It's best to avoid the stitching, so try to get it right onto the seam allowance only. Make sure to leave the paper on for now, and run your fingers along the length of piping and tape, just to make sure you have it on well enough. You'll be pulling the paper backing off next.

So now you have your collar and the collar lining. Set aside the lining for now. Start pulling off a little of the paper backing. You have now revealed the other side of the tape.

Start on the outside edge of the collar (not the neck edge), and apply a bit of piping. If your collar is rounded like mine, you'll want to clip a little (just to the stitching near the cord, not through it) to ease the piping around the corner. You can clip right through the seam allowance and tape together. Press the piping down onto the edge of the collar, with seam allowances matching.

Continue pressing and clipping until you have made it all the way around the outside edge. You can leave a little bit of the piping out at the edge.

Now it's time to stitch the piping to your lining. You might ask why this is necessary as it is already pressed down to the fabric. The reason you still have to stitch it is because the stitch line will provide you a guide for where to stitch when you put it together with the collar lining. Your piping won't be as neat if you skip this step.

You want to first stitch the piping right on top of the stitching of the actual piping itself. In my gingham piping, I'll be stitching directly on top of the white thread.

So, now that the piping has been sewn down, go ahead and pin your lining fabric with right sides together. In my case, I used the same fabric, but you could use a solid, or coordinating fabric, etc.

Here comes the tricky part. And it's not really that tricky, you just have to stitch carefully. You are going to be doing something called "squeezing the piping." You want to sew a straight stitch just to the left of your original stitch line. This will ensure that none of the thread from the actual piping will show through on the right side of the collar.

Hopefully you can see from the picture what this looks like.
If you sew too close to the original row of stitching, you will see the thread. If you sew too far away, you will have squeezed too much, and not enough of the piping will show from the right side. If this happens, just get out your seam ripper, and try, try, again!

In this picture, my finger is pointing to an area where I didn't sew far enough away from my original stitch line, and I'll have to go back and stitch a little closer to the cord in the piping. The key to making piping look neat is to make sure that none of those stitches show.

I then go back and make one more pass into the seam allowance in lieu of clipping the whole thing. Clipping the seam allowance allows for the curves to lay flat, but I've found it somewhat easier to just run another line of stitching and cut all the excess seam allowance away.

Then, just turn your collar, and carefully press.

You're done! See, that wasn't so hard...

Now, on the dress I am making, I wanted some piping on the seam between the bodice and skirt too. On this particular seam, there is a 1/2" seam allowance. So, I put the piping 1/2" up, using the wondertape method.

I want to reduce the bulk of the seam by cutting away a little of the cord. Gently open up the piping, grasp the cord, and pull a little out. Clip the cord back to where you think the seam will be, and straighten the piping back out.

This will make a nicer seam where the two side seams meet. If at all possible, sew the side seams first, then add the piping. It's easier, and looks nicer too.

Happy sewing..., oh and I thought you might want to see the finished product!

Sneak Peek

2009-04-27T12:53:00.001-04:00

love. That's all I'm gonna say...

Concord Arts Market!

2009-04-26T13:11:00.005-04:00

Well, for the past month, I've been gearing up for the opening day of the Concord Arts Market in downtown Concord, NH! Opening day is May 30th, so if you are in the area, come on down and check us out. If it is anything like last year, there will be some amazing handmade crafts, and definitely something for everyone. There is usually some live music, and this year it's rain or shine. The farmer's market is right next door, so get some delicious locally grown food, see some wonderful artisans, and grab one of my favorite sandwiches in the world (the tomato, mozzarella, basil) from Madeleine's on Main Street. Oh, and their raspberry palmier are my favorite in the whole wide world, and I can really say that!

I'm starting to get that nervous feeling already, as I know I don't have nearly enough finished. I especially want to focus on my collection, but when there are so many great new things to try out, it's hard to go back and make more sizes of the same. Anyone else have this problem? Even now I'm planning on a few new knit styles for summer. Ugh, so many great designs, so little time.

I'm in Minneapolis right now, but next week it's off to Washington, D.C. where one of my favorite fabric stores awaits. I first found G Street Fabrics when I was a student. I haven't been able to get back there for at least 10 years, and I am chomping at the bit to go. We arrive in D.C. around 11:30am, so I'll be there by 1pm at the latest. Wahoo! The thing is, there are plenty of quilting cottons to be had in the bold and colorful prints I love. But there just aren't that many fabric stores that cater to clothes-making any more.

When I was a little girl, my Mother and I had terrible battles over clothes shopping. I was extremely picky about fit, color, and conformity. See, I just wanted to blend in to the crowd because I was so shy. So, if we couldn't find anything ready-to-wear, it was off to the fabric store to get all different colors of gabardine for slacks, and cotton prints for tops. No skirts for me. Thank goodness I didn't pass the picky gene on to my own daughter! Back then, there were fabric stores everywhere. Now you are pretty much relegated to JoAnn's, which for me isn't ideal. So, thank goodness there are still some fabric stores that have fabric for actual clothes and not just quiltmaking. I'm particularly on the lookout for eyelet, anything with texture, and jersey knit. I'll keep you posted...

Sandi Henderson's "Gracie", a different way to construct the yoke...

2009-04-16T23:22:00.012-04:00

I have totally enjoyed making Sandi Henderson's 'Gracie' pattern. I've done it a few times now, and marvel at its ease, until you get to the part with the bias on the neck.

I have nothing against bias binding per se, it's just hard to do it neatly when you tuck in the ends. After thinking on it, I decided to try to construct it a little differently.

Forgive the pictures as this is my first attempt at showing my work in progress, and the photos are a little rough. This will probably make more sense to those of you who have made this jumper a few times. Also, a little disclaimer. I am by NO means an expert in sewing, this is just my way of making this pattern easier for me.

So, you go along as normal, following the pattern instructions, until you get to the round yoke neck piece. Sew the ends as before, but then go ahead and stitch the inside seam of the yoke too. Now, Sandi's patterns have a 1/2" seam allowance. To account for the fact that you'll be leaving the bias edge out of my version completely, only do 1/4" seams so you don't have to adjust the pattern. Once you sew the inside edge, clip the seam allowance, turn right side out and press.

Then, instead of sandwiching the jumper between the outside of the yoke, just stitch one layer of the yoke to the jumper, leaving the other free. You will want to match up the back of the yoke seam with the edge of the back. So, only stitch one side, and only where it meets the actual jumper.

Once you get one side sewn down, press the seams toward the yoke. Then, press 1/4" under on the side that isn't sewn at all. This will serve as a guide when you pin it all down.

Then, pin the turned under edge just to your line of stitching. Pins are your friends here. Because you will be blind stitching and this jumper is reversible, I take a lot of care to make sure that the two sides are matching up so that when you topstitch on one side, it won't be wonky on the other.

Pin all the way around the yoke, and when you come to the arm section, turn both sides under and pin. Then, topstitch the entire yoke. And voila, no more bias binding. Finish the rest of the jumper as in the pattern.

I don't know if this method is any more or less tricky, but at least you don't have to make the bias tape and use more fabric.

spring crocus

2009-04-14T19:31:00.003-04:00

spring crocus, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Today was the first nice day here in Northern New England that I was home with my daughter. I had planned on taking at least a couple hours to try and sew, but it just didn't happen. Some days are like that.

I've been keeping my eyes peeled for anything remotely resembling Spring. Yes of course we've had the mud and the frost heaves but that doesn't exactly lift one's spirits. But today, at last, a harbinger. Some of the crocus I planted to naturalize in our lawn are up and blooming. I must have planted about 250 bulbs in late fall. Scillas, crocus, and fritillarias, my favorite.

These gorgeous crocus have the unfortunate name of 'Negro Boy' and are from Old House Gardens, an heirloom bulb company that I've ordered from just about every other year. They are the darkest midnight purple I've ever seen and date from the year 1910. I also planted a mix of colors from Van Engelen that included yellow, white, and a striped purple. I can't wait to seed the lawn and see the results next Spring...

Adventures with a little girl...

2009-04-08T07:01:00.006-04:00

A little disclaimer, this has nothing whatsoever to do with sewing, and everything to do with hitting the reset button on our lives.

My husband, daughter and I took a little trip this past week, and I just had to write a little something about it. We decided to do a camping trip through some of the National Parks in Southern Utah, and it was totally extraordinary. Being from New England we are used to feeling surrounded by forest, lakes, and trees, but the country out there is like nothing I had ever experienced. Sure, I've been to Vegas, Phoenix and the like, but the transition from one landscape to the next is so abrupt in that corner of the state it's just very exciting.

So we started our trip in Zion National Park where the order of the day is soaring sandstone canyon walls and steep, heart attack inducing cliffs. My child hiked 8 miles that day (not all at once!), and as you can imagine slept like a champion in the tent. We would've loved to go up the canyon, but you have to get your feet wet, and the weather was still a bit chilly.

The following day we headed to Bryce Canyon where we had thankfully given ourselves a night inside after two nights in the tent. Bryce is at 8000 feet, and it was COLD! In fact, it snowed that night, and I got some great shots of all the hoodoo rock formations in the canyon the following morning. At this point in our trip it seemed as though the weather was really going to get worse, and we toyed with the idea of heading south to the Nevada border. But, no, not us hardy souls. And in fact, I'm so glad we didn't because we would've missed one of the highlights of the trip. So on to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and some of the coolest, narrowest slot canyons I've ever been in.

Spooky Gulch, in the Escalante area, is a small gulch that is known for its accessibility, and narrowness. Honestly, we are not small people, but had we been much wider we would not have made it through the maze of rock. It is about 15" wide at its narrowest, but to be frank, that goes on for a long time. I think the canyon itself is only about 1/2 mile long, but it feels so much longer! Our daughter had no problem racing ahead, a serious problem for us of course, because you really can't see around the next bend, and she was soon unseen.

All's well though, and my husband eventually caught up to her and helped her over the harder spots. I thought I'd feel a little claustrophobic, but the canyon was so awe inspiring, that I loved every second of it.

The next two nights were very cold, down into the low 20's, but we still had an amazing time. The last day of our trip we decided to drive the Burr Trail from Capitol Reef National Park back to our campground in one big loop. We saw a few arches, the "Waterpocket Fold", which is a geologic feature in Capitol Reef that is too strange for words, and picnicked overlooking the Fold and the Henrie mountains.

I'd highly recommend any of the places we went for kids. There are tons of small, rewarding hikes to do, and that's all they really need to be entertained anyway. A few rocks, a whole lot of dirt, and you're on your way.

But I admit, my own bed never looked so good...

Sofia Masri

2009-03-29T20:41:00.002-04:00

Alas, the life of a flight attendant. I was supposed to be home tonight, but due to weather in Boston, I am here in Detroit. But don't cry for me because I'm staying in the BEST hotel in the system. Serene and restful decor (read: no burgundy or hunter green in sight), crisp white linens, and a marble bathroom. Still, I'd rather be home...

So last week I was in Madison, and checking out that lovely shop Anthology and they have a number of etsy sellers there. The one that caught my eye was Sofia Masri. I have always admired her style when I've seen her porcelain earrings and pendants on the front page, but sometimes it seemed the pictures were too good to be true.

I'm here to tell you that they aren't. Her porcelain pieces are more beautiful in person than they are on the web. I really admired a small yellow pendant in the shop that was similar to these earrings. One of these days I'll be ordering myself a beautiful pendant, the only problem being trying to winnow it down amongst all the gorgeous colors!

And, On to the Pink...

2009-03-28T21:29:00.007-04:00

Tonight I'm in Fort Myers, FL, but just a short trip this time. I'm home tomorrow, and then on vacation all next week. Yippee!

The second part of my line is the perennial girl favorite: PINK! I used soft pinks, hot pinks, and sophisticated (if there is such a thing) pink. The mix and match features a reversible pink wrap skirt with a chickadee on one side, and a cool pink and green trim on the other. That skirt pairs with my happy dot blouse, and spring blooms top. If yellow is your thing, you can pair it with my sunshine peasant blouse from the blue collection too.

The ruffle capris go with everything, and even extend the life of my reversible pink jumper. My daughter is wearing the size 2, and she normally wears a size 5! So the first summer she wears it as a jumper, the next year as a top, so it's like getting 4 outfits in one!

My wavy capri pants are the other coordinate for the spring blooms top and can also extend the life of my reversible asymmetric jumper.

The reversible pink jumper features a sweetheart neckline and a keyhole opening in the back. Just a little piping and rickrack complete the look.

And no collection would be complete without a trendy apron dress.

Next up: cross-pollination.

Spring/Summer 2009 Collection!

2009-03-23T16:46:00.006-04:00

I've been thinking about this collection for so long that the styles made themselves in my head long before they were translated into cloth and thread. However, I think having them all in one place would be helpful for you to see how they work together and all of the possibilities!

So today, it's all about the aqua with dashes of hot pink, apple green, and sunshine yellow...

This first dress is reversible, and you can see that you get two totally different looks in one dress. One of the features I love about this one is the elastic under the arms which makes it so that you can get more use out of it. As she grows up, she can wear it next season as a top with my aqua capris!

I love the combination of these fabrics because they are so refreshing and cool for the summer heat. The wrap dress has an easy style that can go from casual to a bit more dressy, and the apron dress has a trendy appeal.

Finally, all my mix and match styles in one place! The polka dot apple green skirt reverses to a solid aqua, and will go with all of my tops. The yo-yo garden skirt can also be paired with everything and the aqua capris can extend the life of those aforementioned dresses. I designed everything to mix and match even for when it's Daddy's turn to dress her up. I know you know what I mean...

Everything is available in my etsy store and as always if you like a fabric but want it in a different style, I can do that too.

The other thing I'd like to try doing is letting you all know where I am in the world when I write these posts, because I'm sure it seems like a crazy life for many. As you know I'm a flight attendant and travel the country on a weekly basis. I'm headed home after a four day trip which has included layovers in Edmonton, Detroit, and right now Madison. By the way, I have stumbled upon a wonderful shop at 218 State Street which features all manner of paper, fabric, and handmade creations that fit my aesthetic perfectly. Its name is Anthology, and if you live in Madison, you should go check it out. Today I tried on a pendant from Sofia Masri that was really hard to leave at the shop. More on that later...

Anyway, from Madison, happy spring!

A New Style, A New Look

2009-03-20T22:09:00.006-04:00

As promised, a sleeveless version! I'm calling this particular color "Sunshine on Her Shoulders". Yes, probably a tad cornball, but when you are talking about little girls, you're allowed, right? It took me a long time to decide on a yoke treatment. I thought about horizontal trim and ruled it out with all that is going on with the buttons and the skirt print itself. In the end I decided to do a simple scallop treatment that really stands out against the bright yellow of the yoke. So sweet.

The other thing I started messing around with this afternoon is some of the free textures on flickr. Through the magic of photoshop I was able to apply it to my favorite photograph of my child wearing the sunshine dress. Let me know what you think!

This is why I LOVE flickr

2009-03-11T09:19:00.002-04:00

M9002 Gallery, originally uploaded by sandritocat.

Because it's so inspirational! I was browsing through my photo contacts when I hit upon this number. Sandritocat on Etsy is one of my favorite sellers of vintage patterns. She has an amazing selection for children. But what I like about browsing her flickr photos is that I can get inspired by women's patterns just as much as little girls. So yes, you guessed it. My newest dress was inspired by this very picture.

I love the buttons on the side, it just adds a great twist. I added puff sleeves to mine because they are just so darn girly, and really fit with the look of the dress. I plan on drafting this in a sleeveless style too (in my non-existent spare time).

So this dress opens on the side all the way down to the hem, so it's very easy to put on. It's one of a kind, but only because I don't have enough of that amy butler fabric to do another one. So if you really can't live without it you can beg me for the size you need...hehehe.

The next time I make something that looks like this, I'm thinking of using Anna Maria Horner's drawing room fabric. It'll be pretty bold, so should be fun. Back to the drawing board...

Custom Creations

2009-03-09T10:29:00.008-04:00

I've been thinking a lot about custom orders, because I've been getting a lot of them lately! Let me just say that I love working on them because they usually present some kind of challenge. Most of the time this involves a change of trim or button. One of the things I love the most about designing clothes is putting it all together. With a custom order, my customer has been inspired by something they have seen, and then they inspire me with their desires!

A dress that seems to have provoked its fair share of orders is this one, my new green pinafore wrap dress:

I love everything about this dress, the style, the colors, the trim. I've had that green floral for some time, but couldn't bring myself to cut into it. That's how much of a fabric disease I have! I think what people respond to are the bright springy colors, and of course that great loopy trim.

So the dress inspired not only the pink dress pictured above, but it will hopefully also be a part of my signature asymmetric jumper, on the reverse from the aqua side. I think it will be smashing.

Here are some other custom dresses I've done:

Such fun. What I love about custom orders is that it is usually something different. I love variety, and enjoy the diversion from my styles. Plus it almost always inspires me to think about what else I can do with any given fabric. If I get the chance to do that new green asymmetric, I'll be sure to post a picture!

CPSIA-The Gift that Keeps on Giving, Business ICU

2009-02-27T12:29:00.010-05:00

One of the best gifts we gave our daughter this Christmas was a six month subscription to the best play dough on the market. It comes packaged in a reusable tin, and my daughter gets a new color each and every month. Not only does she look forward to getting her present in the mail, something kids at her age adore, but the colors are not exactly what you find in the store. This month it happened to be a charcoal color with sparkles mixed in. I can't tell you how much enjoyment my daughter has gotten from this monthly surprise, and this stuff is amazing!

I'm sure there are lots of homemade play dough recipes out there, but I just love the fact that I don't have to do it, and the "mail thing" is an added bonus for my daughter. This dough stays supple (as long as you promptly put it away, like all dough) and goes through all her molds like a dream. Better still, it doesn't take too much to clean it up, and leaves very little mess behind.

I haven't checked in with the proprietor of this wonderful shop to see what she might do about the CPSIA. Clearly, her products are intended for use by children under 12, and even more clear is that they are not toxic in the least. In fact, they are most likely made with things everyone probably has on hand in their pantry. To lose these sellers in the wake of this inane law would be a real tragedy. There are so many non-toxic, imaginative toys, made and sold in this country. I hope we can all keep the pressure on to get the law amended.

By the way, that isn't charcoal gray play doh on my daughter's fingernails. She ate about a half a package of frozen blueberries last night, and the juice stained them purple. Hey, at least she loves fruit!

Sewing Expeditions

2009-02-22T17:14:00.005-05:00

That may seem a silly phrase, but it’s exactly how I feel when I embark on a new pattern or new style. After being inspired by The Polish Wife’s photo of a recently completed farbenmix pattern “Geske”, I decided to tackle some patterns that I had in my stash that I had never done before.

All pattern sewing for me is a learning experience, which is why it’s such fun to try new things. Better yet, I had some fabric that I had been meaning to use up. A one yard cut of one of my favorite prints in turquoise, hot pink, and coral was just waiting for my brain to have enough time to decide what I wanted to do with it. So after I finished up an order, I focused in on the pattern “Henrika.” It is a dress pattern that buttons down the back, and I wanted only short sleeves as it would be a summer dress.

All went well until I realized that I had been thinking about the ruffles completely wrong. So, even though I had stitched and top-stitched the thing to where it was nearly finished, I ended up having to rip out two skirt panels on both sides in order to insert the ruffles themselves into the side seam. It would never work to have them not enclosed in the seam and just kind of hanging there in space.

After that little mishap, it was smooth sailing, and you can see the results! Honestly though, I will not be making this particular style again in a woven cotton. Certain patterns just work better with knits, and this happens to be one of them. As it happens, I purchased some great striped knits from the Oilily Outlet outside of Amsterdam, and I think this will be a delightful use of the fabric. My daughter's favorite color is blue, but I'll be doing this in a white and red stripe, and with a woven cotton ruffle, and might even applique something on the front if I can find an idea I want to do.

What is my next “expedition”? I have a cute halter style dress in mind, a modified Xenia if you will, but I have to change the back from a zipper to a button back, because I have not mastered the zipper. Being the perfection freak that I am, if the zipper doesn't look professional, I want no part of it. Stay tuned...

P.S. Our dog is now insistent that he be photographed right along with my child. A star is born...

Seven Random Things...

2009-02-16T21:38:00.002-05:00

Awhile back I was tagged by Patty from L&B Accessories. If you haven’t checked out her Etsy shop, you should. She makes gorgeous wallets, handbags and accessories, and I love her style. She’s been doing some new styles with black that I love. And I can attest to the quality of her work. I own one of her beautiful deluxe wallets, and every stitch is in place. Perfect.

Anyway, back to the tagging. I can’t pass this along, because I honestly don’t know seven people who blog, but I thought it might be fun to divulge seven random things about myself that you would never know…

Number 1: I speak Japanese. Yep, that’s right, Japanese. How did this come about? Back in high school I was planning on majoring in Spanish, when I heard of a course being offered through St. Paul’s School Advanced Studies Program in Concord, NH. It is an intensive six-week course offered to students from New Hampshire in the summer. I was accepted into the Japanese program on the wise advice of my Father who said (back in the 80's) that the demand for Japanese speakers would be greater than those who spoke Spanish. So, I took the course, headed to Georgetown University, majored in Japanese, and spent a year in Japan teaching English to junior high school students. Now THAT was an adventure. I am in need of some major brushing up on my skills though, so I need to go spend a month over there or more…wish I had the time.

Number 2: I love jazz music. Not the watered down stuff you hear on the radio, but hard driving, crazy loud, live jazz. After I got back from Japan I worked at Blues Alley in Washington, D.C. that saw the likes of McCoy Tyner, Joe Henderson, Al Dimeola, Pat Metheny, Branford Marsalis, Dizzy Gillespie, Stanley Turrentine, etc., etc., etc. come through and play. I worked in the office during the day, and hung out at the club for the first set, sometimes both sets in the evening. I must have 50 or more promo headshots of the artists autographed to me. Sweet.

Number 3: I adore sweet food. Seriously, if I could start at dessert and work my way back through dinner that would be fine by me. I have a serious ice cream habit, and my favorite of all time is Starbucks mud pie, a concoction of the most delicious coffee ice cream in the world with a healthy dose of oreo cookies mixed in. Absolutely divine.

Number 4: I am a flight attendant by day. I work for Northwest, soon to be Delta, and I have been at it since the early 90’s. My job keeps my wanderlust at bay, and allows me time to my independent self, which is just what I crave.

Number 5: I have project finish-itis. It may not seem it, but there is something about finishing a project that I find deeply satisfying and maddeningly difficult to do. I have about four dresses cut and ready to sew, but do you think I could grab those to work on instead of moving on to the next pattern? Oh no, not me. I wish I knew why I did this, but no one has ever provided me an answer. Must ponder…

Number 6: I love to travel. This may seem obvious given number 4, but many of my fellow flight attendants would rather just stay at home. Don’t get me wrong, I love coming home, but I love going away just as much. My ideal trip involves me telling my husband where I think we should go, and him doing all the planning. I take care of the flights; he takes care of the rest. I can’t stand doing all the nitty-gritty details planning. Odd really for someone like me who loves the details when it comes to my projects.

One of my favorite trips ever was to Iceland. We did this amazing trek from hut to hut through the interior, and every day held a new and fascinating landscape. It was like nothing else I have ever experienced, and far exceeded my expectations, which is saying a lot.

Number 7: I love gardening and flowers, and while I can’t keep a houseplant alive, save for the Phalenopsis orchid that is growing right next to my kitchen sink, I delight in growing woodland plants and native species outside my living room window. We have trillium, bunchberry, lady slippers, jack-in-the-pulpits, and princess pine growing behind our house, and although I can’t stand the biting insects in the spring, I thrill at seeing those wildflowers in their natural state. My daughter, who just turned 4, is learning all about her native New England wildflowers, and I couldn’t be prouder. My friends joke that she could survive in the woods for weeks if she had to. A gross exaggeration for sure, but she definitely knows where all the wild berry brambles are.

So that’s it, now you know me a little better. Feel free to leave your own list in the comments section; I’d love to know more about you.

CPSIA, Here we go again...

2009-02-07T06:56:00.005-05:00

I'm up early, trying to assimilate the latest roller coaster that is known by all as the CPSIA legislation. Last week, a "stay of enforcement" was issued by the CPSC because they were swamped. I was hopeful that a rational approach to this law would ensue, but oh no. The stay really will not affect me at all at this point. The stay merely prolongs the agony of misinformation, lack of guidance, and flip-flopping regulations.

Case in point: phthalates. These are chemicals that soften plastic, and are found in things like vinyl and PVC. I have largely ignored this class of chemicals, because it doesn't really affect my business. My button supplier does not use these in their buttons, so I haven't worried about it too much. Besides, the third-party testing for phthalates is astronomical, way worse than lead. So if I did suspect that a component had them, I would be substituting it anyway.

Here's the problem: The NRDC brought a suit against the CPSC in its retroactivity ruling regarding inventory with these chemicals. And they won. Previously, lead needed to be tested and certified in existing inventory, but not phthalates. Well, now companies have 3 days, 3 DAYS, to get their inventory tested and certified. And I thought 3 MONTHS was ridiculous. So, now again, we have a situation that is going to be devastating to large and small businesses alike. If retailers have nothing to sell from the large companies, they WILL NOT be able to stay afloat. If retailers don't stay afloat, more people will be unemployed, and if more people are unemployed, they won't be able to spend money on all of those ETSY businesses like mine.

TRUST ME WHEN I SAY THIS AFFECTS EVERYONE!

Sorry to yell, but it is so disheartening to work so hard on something, and see the special interest groups win again. I support safety in children's products wholeheartedly. I have a child, and I want her to grow up in a safe, healthy environment. But to be told you have 3 days to comply with a broad sweeping law is just insanity.

In some good news though, the CPSC put out a press release yesterday. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what they have said, so here is an exerpt:

In an effort to provide clear and reasonable guidance to those impacted by this important law, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is announcing its enforcement policy on the lead limits established by the CPSIA.

Manufacturers, importers, distributors, and retailers should also be aware that CPSC will:

*Not impose penalties against anyone for making, importing, distributing, or selling

**a children's product to the extent that it is made of certain natural materials, such as wood, cotton, wool, or certain metals and alloys which the Commission has recognized rarely, if ever, contain lead;

**an ordinary children's book printed after 1985; or

**dyed or undyed textiles (not including leather, vinyl or PVC) and non-metallic thread and trim used in children's apparel and other fabric products, such as baby blankets.

Because I add buttons and snaps to most of my products, I must still test and certify. Luckily I have done this, and am prepared to produce my GCC's. But again, we still need to push Congress to amend the law to allow for component testing and accepting supplier certifications. This is CRUCIAL to the health of the industry and my business specifically.

PLEASE CALL YOUR SENATORS AND ASK THEM TO SUPPORT/CO-SPONSOR JIM DEMINT'S LEGISLATION REGARDING THE CPSIA! I know they are busy with the stimulus package, but they haven't seen anything yet with corporate bankruptcies...more on that in a minute.

So who is in trouble here? Makers of bibs are really in for it, because if they use laminate or vinyl, they have to test for both lead AND phthalates. Guess I won't be introducing bibs into my line any time soon. Sellers of vintage books for children...Dr. Seuss anyone? And pacifier clippies may not be immune either, as they constitute a "child care" product. Retailers are in BIG trouble. They are going to have to dump their inventories in a hurry.

Here is an excerpt from the press release regarding phthalates:

CPSC Issues Guidance For Complying With Phthalates Requirements In New Child Safety Law

WASHINGTON, D.C. - Starting on February 10, 2009, children's toys and child care articles cannot contain more that 0.1% of six phthalates (DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DIDP, and DnOPA) regardless of when they were manufactured. The CPSC will abide by a court decision (pdf) issued yesterday ruling that the prohibition on phthalates in the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 applies to products in inventory. Phthalates are a group of chemicals (oily, colorless liquids) that are used among other things to make vinyl and other plastics soft and flexible.

A "children's toy" is defined in the statute as a product intended for a child 12 years of age or younger for use when playing. The Commission has previously stated that it will follow the definition of toy in the mandatory toy standard which exempts such things as bikes, playground equipment, musical instruments, and sporting goods (except for their toy counterparts).

The statute also prohibits phthalates over the limit in "child care articles," which include products that a child 3 and younger would use for sleeping, feeding, sucking or teething. By way of example, a pacifier/teether would be an item that would help a child with sucking or teething; a sippy cup would facilitate feeding; and a crib mattress would facilitate sleeping.

Companies produce a product in full compliance with the law, and then Congress, Special Interest Groups, and the CPSC pull the rug out from under them and make that product a "banned hazardous substance." So the huge "elephant in the room" here is the issue of existing inventory. We already knew this was a problem with lead. But everyone has been scrambling to make sure they were compliant with the law, and most found a way to do just that. But phthalates were not even on the radar screen. Large companies take loans out on existing "saleable" inventory, and when that inventory isn't saleable, banks are going to have an even bigger problem on their hands. Defaults on more loans, and conflicts with accounting procedures being just two issues they will face.

I could go on, but again, the best thing we can do is to call our representatives in Washington, and alert the media. This is the only way to get this law changed. Please continue the fight, and thanks for your support!

So, I'm taking a photography course...

2009-02-02T18:27:00.001-05:00

fanfare apron dress, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

because I got a new camera, a Nikon D80 as a matter of fact, and had absolutely NO idea how to use it. I mean I had some clue, but my pictures were still not where I wanted them. So, as luck would have it, a Nikon Pro is just down the street from me, and he mentioned that he was starting up a beginner's class. Wahoo! Even luckier for me, i was the only one who signed up, so I am getting 6 weeks of one-on-one instruction.

So last week, I was explaining to him that my daughter never sits still, so the majority of the photos were blurry. And of course when I made the shutter speed faster, there wasn't enough light. He replied, "Did you change the ISO?"

Well, duh. Even though I've had a digital point and shoot for quite some time, I don't think this was an option on my camera, so while I was aware this was possible, it just didn't occur to me. This one was taken indoors, on a bright overcast day, at ISO 320. Probably a little overexposed, and my camera as much as told me so, but I was just so excited to get brighter pictures indoors that I left it that way. I think I photoshopped this slightly darker, but I still love the light quality on her face, and I'm loving that expression.

This dress is part of my Spring/Summer '09 line, and uses the colors I love to put her in: deep aqua, magenta, pink, and a dash of red. Every time I have to go to my day job, my mind whirs with everything I have ready to sew. I've been concentrating on cutting, and so I have about 4 garments ready to be sewn. I'm trying to be a bit more efficient and cut two colors out at once. This really cuts down on the workload. Here's to finding snippets of time...

CPSIA Cracks of Light and Glimmers of Hope

2009-01-31T12:06:00.006-05:00

So much has happened in the last 24 hours that it is hard for me to get my head around it all and write something cohesive. There have been two big breaks for businesses of all sizes in the fight against the CPSIA. First came from the Commission itself in the form of a "stay of enforcement". It seems as though we have definitely made ourselves heard. A staff of 15 has been taking literally thousands of calls regarding the testing and other requirements of the CPSIA and have been tsunami'd by cases requesting exemptions. This has forced the commission to take a year to review the data, set forth better guidelines for compliance, and try to deal with issues of enforcement.

The second, even more important development is a piece of legislation that will be introduced by Senator Jim DeMint (R-SC) amending the current legislation to include four important changes.

1. Allow small manufacturers to use the testing and certification that their component suppliers have done to certify that the components do not contain an impermissible amount of lead.

2. Exempt thrift stores, yard sales, consignments shops and other re-sellers from the prohibitions in the act.

3. Prevent retro-active enforcement of the act.

4. Provide a Good-Faith Exemption. A one-time exemption from penalty if your product is found to be in non-compliance, but you were acting in good faith.

While this doesn't go all the way to fixing what is wrong with the law, it certainly will be a marked improvement from what is currently written.

Now here comes the important stuff: Mr. DeMint is in the minority party in the Senate. He is going to need bi-partisan support to get this through, and you can bet the consumer groups that brought this law to bear are going to be plenty vocal about why this law shouldn't be changed. I know I am going to call my representatives in Washington and tell them to support this amendment!

In another development more personal to me, I spoke with Ms. Lauren Oppenheimer, the Legislative Director for Rep. Hodes (D-NH) yesterday. She couldn't have been more understanding of how this law is going to impact businesses throughout New Hampshire (and indeed the country). She also apologized profusely about the misinformation that came out of Mr. Hodes' office, and was deeply troubled that they had added to the confusion in any way. She assured me that our voices are being heard loud and clear (go team!) and in fact Rep. Hodes along with all of the Northern New England House Delegation had sent a letter to Commissioner Nord in an effort to clarify these rules as they apply to business.

Whew! Thanks to so many who have made these improvements possible, but let's not back down. I appreciate the stay of enforcement (although I've already tested my products with an XRF gun) but let's not lose sight of the fact that the fight isn't over. Moreover, just because there is a stay of enforcement doesn't allow anyone the right to sell products that may be over the limit for lead. The stay does nothing for the threshold limits set forth in the law and better to be safe than sorry.

Now off to call my reps...or better yet, as I'm headed to Fort Lauderdale for my day job, I think I'll take the day off...

CPSIA Blogathon

2009-01-28T13:07:00.003-05:00

In an effort to flood the "blog waves" with information about the CPSIA, Chichiboulie thought it would be a great idea to pick a day and have as many people writing about this as possible. As readers of my blog you are probably already aware of what this will mean for my business. Right now I am CPSIA compliant through August 14th. After that date I will have to close my doors if the law isn't amended or repealed. I simply cannot afford to pass the huge costs of testing onto my customers.

That being said, I've already written a great deal about this law. So today I thought I would write about my experiences in dealing with Congress, and trying to persuade them that this law is devastating to many small businesses around the country. My senators are Jeanne Shaheen and Judd Gregg, and my representative in the House is Paul Hodes. I started a letter writing campaign back in November, and did not find too much satisfaction in the written word.

Mr. Hodes' office wrote back a form letter relating only to his support of the law, and my concerns were totally ignored. No doubt my letter did not make it past a junior staffer. I decided to call his office, and those of my Senators last week, and finally I was able to speak to the legislative aides. They stated that they had received many calls and letters about it, so that is definitely a good thing.

I then received a letter dated January 22 from Paul Hodes office that at least addressed my concerns a little more. Unfortunately this communication contained statements that are totally wrong:

"The lead requirements do not apply to already manufactured goods."

Unfortunately this has been the most challenging aspect of this whole mess. If our own leaders who voted for this debacle don't understand the actual verbiage and subsequent decisions rendered by the General Counsel for the CPSC, Cheryl Falvey, then how do they expect us to comply with the law?

In fact, in a letter written to Michael Brown dated November 14th, 2008, Ms. Falvey reiterated a previous decision on the lead ruling as it relates to current inventory, and stated that everything that wasn't tested as of February 10th would become a "banned hazardous substance." How can our congressional representatives not know these basic facts?

In my opinion Nancy Nord, who is the head of the CPSC, is interpreting this law as broadly as possible not only because she is compelled to do so, but is also creating confusion so that we all force Congress to change it. She knows, given her budgetary constraints, that it is impossible to enforce it. Her only chance is to have enough people make a stink about it to Congress to force an amendment. Let's hope it works.

Value Added...

2009-01-26T08:48:00.006-05:00

For my collection this spring, I have thought long and hard about how to add value to my line. How to turn this whole CPSIA mess on its head, and really make my collection stand out from the crowd. If I have to test my units, and ultimately pass that on to my customer, how can I make it worth it to them (you?) to pay a little higher price? Reversible styles have been popular for a long time, and with good reason. They are practical, stylish, and economical. You get two for the price of one, and maybe even more. How you ask? Read on...

My new reversible "pink floating flowers" jumper is the answer (or at least one of them). Believe it or not, this dress is a size 2T. My daughter now wears a size 5! So, let's say your daughter is in a size 2 right now. Perfect! She can wear this dress (remember, it's reversible) for the entire spring and summer, and even through the fall with a turtleneck underneath. Then, next year when she's a little taller, she can use it as a top with some cute capris or shorts! I detailed this dress with a sweetheart neckline and a little bit of piping at the neck for detail. The back features a keyhole opening for easy on and off, and the underarm is elasticized. Not only will there not be any gaping at the armhole, but it also allows for growing room. I also set off the hemline with some pink rickrack.

The capris are also part of my collection and coordinate with a ton of new designs. I've yet to produce everything, but they are all sketched out just waiting for a day of sewing (I swear I need 24 more hours in each day just to accomplish everything).

The reverse of the dress is sweetness personified. I LOVE bold color, but sometimes a bit softer is nice too. This print is modern but not too flashy. Oh, and in case you hadn't already guessed? Yes, my deliberate child decided that she needed "bangs" again!! We were SO close to having her tresses all one length, but as she rarely keeps ties in her hair, her longer bangs were in her face much of the time. Solution? When Mommy is down ironing a skirt to wear, I will take my new snub-noses and cut off 7 or so inches of hair around my face. I know, I know, it's a rite of passage, but it did nearly bring me to tears...but I digress.

This is only one of several reversible styles I'll be adding, so keep checking. I don't think I'll have everything in my shop February 10th, but it should all be there by March (fingers crossed).

Comments Deadline is Looming...

2009-01-24T13:11:00.006-05:00

I am re-posting the final paragraph from the CPSC website regarding the RFC (request for comments) for component versus unit testing. This will make it even easier for everyone to copy and paste right into email format.

To find my answers to all of the comments, just scroll down my blog, they are listed one by one. I have just finished editing all of the comments, but again feel free to use mine as a basis for yours. The more responses they receive, the better we will be.

Comments must be received by the Office of the Secretary no later than January 30, 2009. Comments may be filed by email to Sec102ComponentPartsTesting@cpsc.gov. Comments may also be filed by facsimile to (301) 504-0127 or by mail or delivery to the Office of the Secretary, Consumer Product Safety Commission, Room 502, 4330 East-West Highway, Bethesda, Maryland, 20814. Comments should be captioned “Section 102 Mandatory Third- Party Testing of Component Parts.” Interested persons will also have additional opportunities to comment following publication of any notices of rulemaking proceedings in the Federal Register which are commenced under this section.

I will also be including the NAM Petition as part of my comments. This organization has detailed a very rational approach to the testing requirement, including a number of component exemptions based on level of risk for lead and phathalates. I urge you all to read it and send it along. It can only help!

Update on Buttons, There is Still Hope!

2009-01-21T12:04:00.002-05:00

I just had a most interesting communication from my button supplier. It seems as though I may have been hasty in my assessment of the lead content in their plastic buttons, which seemed dubious from my standpoint anyway. Looking at the buttons in question it just seems improbable that they contained any lead.

So, they basically told me that any button that is shiny or glittery, and is tested with an XRF gun may give a false positive. I don't understand why this is, but they said that the reflection may cause a lead reading. Most of the buttons I purchase are made in Europe, and they have even stricter standards than the CPSIA. Now granted, the buttons are not intended for children, but I'm pretty sure that the European standards don't allow leeway for any product. Even though it isn't allowed as part of a "reasonable testing program" I will soon be getting the certifications from my supplier regarding their plastic buttons. They stated, unequivocally, that the buttons contained neither lead nor phthalates. Yeah!

Now we just have to get Congress to amend their silly law to allow for manufacturer/supplier certs...back to the drawing board...

Inauguration Day!!

2009-01-21T06:47:00.004-05:00

Well, technically it was yesterday, but who cares! It has finally come. When Mr. Bush was voted into office for a second time, I was still pregnant with my daughter. I looked to my husband and said, "Do you realize that our child will be nearly 4 when this guy is out of office?!"

The day has finally come, and our daughter will turn 4 next month. We don't have cable, or an antenna, so for all intents and purposes, we don't have TV. It was the first time in a l-o-n-g time that I missed it. Of course I listened on NPR, and as always their coverage was wonderful. Mostly I loved the "man on the street" interviews. Everyone there had an interesting story to tell. Although they didn't interview them, for me one of the most poignant moments came when they were talking about the Tuskeegee Airmen. One of the commentators noted that although they loved their country and served it with distinction, they didn't always feel that it loved them back. Yesterday, they did. It literally brought tears to my eyes.

So, I guess it is with renewed hope that I plug away at my calls to Congress, my letters to the media, and my written comments to the CPSC. I know that Congress did not intend for this law to cast as wide a net as it has. But unfortunately that is where we are, and if our government is truly "of the people, by the people, and for the people", then I have to trust that this unreasonable law known as the CPSIA will be amended or outright repealed. Let's keep the pressure on!

A Cross Post from Fashion Incubator

2009-01-20T07:42:00.005-05:00

I wanted to cross post this blog entry from Kathleen Fasanella, www.fashion-incubator.com, because I think it important enough to be widely read. There has been much discussion about a small business exemption, and while I can appreciate the sentiment, I do not share the view. I DO NOT want a small business exemption from the CPSIA. Why? Because I want my products to be as safe as they can be. Because eventually I want to play with the big boys. Because it serves no purpose other than to splinter the fight against this law. What I DO want are clear guidelines, reasonable testing procedures, inclusion of component testing and supplier provided certifications which are not acceptable under the current law. I want the ability to test with XRF technology, which is quite effective at ascertaining lead. So without further ado, excerpts from Kathleen's post:

Don’t throw yourself under the (CPSIA) bus

Posted by Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 19, 2009

By now, those of you following on twitter or here in the forum may have read the letter that the most strident legislative backers of CPSIA namely Waxman, Rush, Rockefeller and Pryor, sent to Nancy Nord of the CPSC. Many have taken this letter as a good sign because it’d mean that the law’s primary proponents have publicly acknowledged there are grave issues with the law. Within our own community, the letter is seen positively because it specifically requests a “small company” exemption. Other than that they faked you with a classic bait and switch -a bone they’re thrown to get you to shut up- hinging all your hopes on a possible exemption would be a grave strategic error. Unknowingly, you will be throwing yourself under the bus. Many of us suspect that the idea of a small company exemption is a strategy to placate the masses. They are hoping you will rest easy and stop annoying congressmen and senators with phone calls and letters or continuing to lobby the press for attention. Fewer of you will be going to the media with your concerns and the negative news stories will dry up if you think there’s a fix in the works. This is the last thing that should happen. Do not rest easy.

For starters, have you given any thought to how “small company” will be defined? According to the SBA -the Small Business Administration- small (in the needle trades, SIC 315) means a firm with fewer than 500 employees. Using the governmental standard would mean that nearly everyone who makes children’s products would be exempt from the law but this implies that retailer’s more stringent interpretations of CPSIA don’t matter (more later). Small would include firms like Hanna Anderson and Gerber as well as all of you. In fact, there are probably fewer than 10 firms in existence that have more than 500 employees because children’s wear is dominated by small companies (68% have fewer than 20 employees). Now, because a “small” business exemption would include nearly all producers, it is not likely that this is the definition that would be used under any proposed CPSIA amendments.

The reason is, it’s no secret that there is a direct correlation between safety and company size. Contrary to what many think, it is tiny companies that have more products failing than large firms as Jennifer Taggert -who’s tested thousands of products- can tell you. In other words, special interest groups know that giving the tiniest companies an exemption would actually increase the proportion of dangerous products on the market, so why would it pass? It won’t. As such, the consensus seems to be that the mention of a small company exemption is for politically expedient reasons. Do not be misled, it’s a bone thrown to you to keep you quiet. A small company exemption is likely to fail and in the mean time, having relaxed, the movement loses traction.

In summary, even if you qualify for an exemption to come, retailers will have gone under or you’ll grow out of the exemption very quickly. What everyone is forgetting here is the affect of this law on retail. Everyone is so busy licking their own wounds that they don’t realize that even if small companies skate by, retail stores -who buy most of their stock from companies larger than you- will go under so they won’t be around to take on your line. If retail goes under, tiny companies will either fail themselves or at best, stagnate. This why a small company exemption will not work and throwing larger firms under the bus in an effort to save your own hide will backfire.

Due to liability concerns, retail is demanding much stricter standards than what the CPSIA requires. Wal-mart put all their vendors on notice to supply lab results -not just GCCs- for anything shipped over the last three seasons. Fail to comply and they’ll ship it back. Burlington Coat Factory is demanding GCCs for everything shipped since January 1, 2006. Failure to comply means being assessed a chargeback that presumably feeds into an escrow pool in the event they’re sued by consumers. I received an email from someone who sells to Macy’s last week; they are demanding vendors produce a GCC within 24 hours of request. Or else. And yeah, I get it that most of you don’t sell to Macy’s, Wal-Mart or BCF but it affects you because if the apparel companies that do sell to them go under and they also sell to smaller stores you want to sell to and constitute the majority of their stock, those stores will go out of business too meaning you have lost a customer or at least a potential customer. Just as all boats float in a rising tide, they all flounder with the lack of one. In this case, decreased competition in the market place is destroying your chances rather than increasing your opportunities. Don’t you see that?

You don’t have to take my word for it, here’s some choice testimony from independent store owners. This is why their standards are stricter than what the CPSIA requires:

Many small stores like myself don’t have the power to send anything back…but regardless if you can or can’t send back, we will still be empty come Feb 10. In fact, most spring lines that are shipping right now are testing using XRF rather than 3rd party to save some time and expenses I presume, and since it’s not required of them until then. But that means come August, retailers like myself will be in the same predicament and will have to empty their shelves yet again and throw away their inventory come August! So I’ve made the decision not to accept any new inventory without 3rd party tests from now on. Sadly that looks like I’ll have a pretty empty store since we focus on handmade and smaller boutique labels for kids.

Another store owner said:

I have only received one Certificate of Compliance from a single manufacturer that applies to 2 of my 4000+ products. Several of my smaller manufacturers have told me that there is no way that they can afford the testing and they will probably go out of business. Some of the larger ones are “looking into it” but it will be several months before they will have anything and then it will only be for their new shipments, not for anything I have in my inventory now. Many of my suppliers are small custom crafters who are stunned to hear about this and of course will not be able to provide certificates. Other manufacturers are simply refusing my calls .

The only thing the most recent letter sent to the CPSC proves is that Congress does know there’s a problem with CPSIA but rather than rest easy, we must step up the pressure now more than ever. Everyone has targeted CPSC for outrage but the hold up is Congress; there will be no change of CPSIA! Are you aware there was a meeting held for congressional staffers last week? Here’s a report from sources who attended the meeting.

Even more outrageous, unnamed staffers are reported to have stated that no hearing would occur until an additional CPSC Commissioner was appointed, and that CPSC would be “unable” to appear at any earlier hearing. In other words, they have no intention of holding hearings in advance of the February 10 implementation date, despite the reams of data they possess on the many serious problems their law is causing. Actually, it is my understanding that the CPSC has requested such a hearing, but that request apparently fell on deaf ears. Spin, spin, spin - and then tell everyone that all discordant views are misinformation or the confusion of [fill-in-the-blank] people. Finally, to cap it off, we understand that House staffers are simply “too busy” to attend meetings with industry and the CPSC to discuss the details of the real life impact of the law.

In other words, CPSC has availed themselves to deal with the problem but it is Congress -in spite of their politically self serving letters- that is gumming up the works. So Waxman, Rush, Pryor and Rockerfeller write a letter that’s released to the public, and everybody thinks the ball’s back in CPSC’s court. It’s not. CPSC’s request for a meeting has been refused. So while you think CPSC is the bad guy and the heat is off Congress, this can only amount to grandstanding to get you all to shut up. By the time you realize Congress is not going to move on it, it’ll be too late. Actually, word has it it’s not even Congress per se but a few key congressional staffers with the power to do this. I can’t mention names but it brings to mind the immense power that eunuchs held behind the thrones of Imperial China.

So what can you do?

You can email but avoid putting the word “CPSIA” in the subject line so they can’t create an email filter to dispose of them easily. Also, be smart with your subject line, do not write “HELP” or whatever in all caps. Even I delete those thinking those are spam. Write a professional subject line.

In addition to emailing your legislators, send an email to all these congressional aides who decide what your Congressman sees.
If you’ve posted an Etsy protest page listing the costs of your product with testing, it is requested that you email that. Do not email a link to your page, they won’t go. Paste in your photo and the text.
Email your testing price quotes.
Fill out the Economic Impact Survey
Continue calls, letters and emails to the media. Of everything you are doing, this has the greatest impact. Do not be persuaded that Congress is acting on this; they are not.
Feel free to use this text file to create a hyperlink that will automatically open an email window much as I did above and post it everywhere.

If you want to read the original post go to www.fashion-incubator.com. Thanks for your support.

Letter for Media Outlets

2009-01-19T17:37:00.002-05:00

Here is a letter that I drafted to send to media outlets. I thought I would post it here for those of you who don't have the time or inclination to write one yourself. Please feel free to copy, paste, and send away.

Dear______:

Here is an idea for a story that will be affecting many businesses throughout the United States. The CPSIA (Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008) imposes a third-party testing requirement on all consumer products that are intended primarily for children 12 years of age and younger. Every manufacturer, including importers and private labelers must have its product tested by an accredited independent testing lab, and based on the test results must issue a GCC (general conformity certificate) that the product meets the requirements. The lead limit starts at 600 parts per million, but then over the course of the next several months, that limit drops to 300 ppm. The civil and criminal penalties for either not having a certificate or furnishing a false certificate are huge, including jail time and steep fines.

Right now, the law states that the testing can only be accomplished by unit or sku, not component testing. What this means for me is that even if I use several fabrics over three different products, and the same button, testing this fabric only once does not meet the requirement. I must test each unit, as it would be sold, even if the components are the same. This alone is wasteful, and doesn't necessarily make that product any safer. Say for example I only use one button on a garment, but that button is over the compliant limit. In the total weight of the garment, it would probably not make that unit non-compliant. However, if that button were tested alone, and found to be non-compliant, I would be forced to find a suitable alternative.

From now until August 9th, XRF technology (x-ray fluorescence) is allowed under a "reasonable testing program" to issue the GCC. An XRF gun can detect levels of lead as low as 2 ppm, and is non-destructive. The wet chemistry test that is mandated in August by a third party accredited lab is not only destructive to the product, but uses noxious chemicals that will subsequently be released into the environment. It is also extremely expensive. Richard Woldenberg, Chairman of Learning Resources, Inc. received an estimate for testing his company's telescopes at $26,000. This particular product has an annual sales number of about $32,000. Clearly there would be no economic incentive for his company to continue to produce that product.

A small point right now, but there are only 16 accredited labs in the U.S., and 70 worldwide. This has vast implications for pricing, estimating costs of testing, and also turnaround times. There simply are not enough accredited labs that do this kind of testing for all of the kid’s products out there.

Many of the business owners I have spoken with are extremely concerned with the materials and supplies that go into their products. The handmade movement was in part born out of a desire for non-toxic children's products. But unfortunately, the CPSC considers us all guilty until proven innocent. The fabric manufacturer has already tested my own fabrics, but I cannot use their certification as part of my own testing program. I must retest myself. There are already international standards for fibers that exceed the requirements of the CPSIA, (oeko-tex is one example) yet I cannot use this internationally recognized standard as part of my GCC.

The problems with the law are pretty clear for small businesses, but even large businesses are not without their problems. JC Penney, Walmart, Target, and other large retailers have already informed their vendors that if they can't produce a GCC as of February 10th, they will be returning their products. Many large producers have loans out on existing "saleable" inventory, but when that inventory isn't saleable anymore, there might be large defaults on loans and more corporate bankruptcies.

There is a whole other angle to this law as well. Resale and thrift stores are not exempt from compliance. The CPSC regards everything that hasn't been tested as a "banned hazardous substance." I haven't been able to confirm this, but there have been reports of some thrift stores not accepting any more children's products. To think of what damage this might do to the average lower income family who relies on these stores to clothe their children is unfathomable. Resale shops can simply not afford to test each item they have in their current inventory. Nor can they afford to throw it all away, not to mention the environmental cost of these items winding up in landfills. The CPSC issued a "supposed" clarification for resale shops, and they basically reiterated the law. A shop does not have to test, but they cannot sell anything over the lead limit after February 10th. So, it is a circular argument. How are the owners supposed to know what the lead content is unless they test.

So costs for children's items will most definitely rise, not to mention that ultimately the consumer will be paying for less choice in the marketplace. The small producers won't be able to pay for the testing, which leaves only the large producers to be left with product in the marketplace. I am a consumer too, and I want safe, non-toxic products for my own child. But this law will not accomplish what it sets out to do as it is currently written.

Here are some useful links for you. The NAM (National Association of Manufacturers) has the best petition out there, as it encompasses all of our concerns and is applicable to every manufacturing situation. Richard Woldenberg has some excellent videos on youtube.com, just search for Richard Woldenberg, and you'll find them. Kathleen Fasanella is an apparel industry veteran, and she has opened the CPSIA section of the member forum to the public. Her blog is http://www.fashion-incubator.com. Rob Wilson is the leader of www.cpsia-central.ning.com. Jennifer Taggart is an environmental lawyer and blogger, and can be contacted through www.thesmartmama.com.

A copy of the actual law as it stands today: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpsia.pdf
The general CPSIA website : http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/cpsia.html
The NAM Petition: http://www.toyassociation.org/AM/PDFs/Safety/CPSCPetition1208.pdf
Rick Woldenberg: http://learningresourcesinc.blogspot.com/

I look forward to hearing from you regarding this important story.

Best,
Melissa McKeagney
Owner/Manufacturer
little girl Pearl

Button Styles...RIP

2009-01-17T12:17:00.003-05:00

As soon as I got back from testing my supplies with the XRF gun, I pulled the non-compliant buttons out of my inventory, and sighed at the uncertainty that now faces me everytime I try to get a new style.

Believe it or not, these are the styles that didn't make it. Some of these are vintage, so it is somewhat more understandable, but most are new. Here are the style numbers that failed the test for 300 ppm for others of you who want to avoid lead in buttons.

JHB Lagoon-all colors
JHB Fantasy pink #39956
JHB Red Dorothea #32650
JHB Monet #12529 (only failed for 300ppm, not 600ppm)
JHB Marseille #35040 (orange color only)
The others are La Mode, and unfortunately I don't have the style numbers. The pink 2-hole fish-eye was a real surprise, as was the rosy 4-hole button.

From now on, I will have every single new button I order tested before I design anything specific. But I definitely got a better sense of what to watch out for (shimmer/metallic effect) when choosing new styles. Hope this helps everyone else before a costly mistake is made.

By the way, if you are wondering what I'm going to do with all those buttons? Most I will use on my daughter's own clothing. My rationale is that there are two pathways to lead exposure: inhalation and ingestion. Luckily I'm not sanding down the buttons so they might produce lead dust, and my daughter is old enough to know not to eat her clothing. That being said, I do not in any way mean to minimize the dangers of this noxious metal, and I will be talking to my button distributors to see what they can do to help me avoid ordering problematic buttons in the first place.

I Got XRF'd Yesterday...the good, bad, and truly hideous

2009-01-15T22:03:00.005-05:00

Rob Wilson, of Challenge & Fun, and http://www.cpsia-central.ning.com, rented an XRF gun, and since his company is relatively close by, I took advantage. After a challenging 2 hour drive with my toddler in tow, I understand even more how truly challenging it is going to be to stay afloat after this law goes into effect. At any rate, I thought I would talk about the whole process of XRF testing.

I had both my current inventory with me, and lots of swatches of the fabrics that I have been using throughout the past year. I also had each and every trim, piping, rick rack, and embellishment that goes into and onto my clothing. Believe it or not, I had all of my buttons as well, and there is the rub. But more about that later...

Here is how it works. XRF, or x-ray fluorescence, is able to detect the type of material being tested, and also the heavy metal composition. Depending on how the user sets the parameters, one can tell how many parts per million (ppm) are in any given substance. You put the gun flat on the object, or use a small stand with a cover for smaller items like buttons, and pull the trigger. After about 30 seconds, it records the readings, and voila, pass or fail. It also gives the amounts, all the way down to less than 5 ppm.

All of my textiles and trims passed with flying colors, as expected. The manufacturer of my materials has told me as much, but it's good to know for sure. The buttons on the other hand were a different story.

The vintage buttons, understandably in some cases, failed in a big way. What was more surprising however was that none of the buttons I use are metal. They are all plastic, nylon, or acrylic. The problem seemed to stem from buttons that had any kind of shimmer, or a pearl-ized look. It seems the manufacturers of these buttons must be specifically adding lead to get a metallic look. The other interesting finding was that if one color in a style failed, then the other ones would too. The color of the button proved to be of no consequence, it was merely the presence of a metallic look that gave any prior indication of a failing grade.

The thing that was challenging to me was that not all the metallic ones failed, only a certain few. These are new buttons though, not vintage, and on first glance it is nearly impossible to tell which one might contain lead. So, my recommendation to others would be to make sure you are testing your buttons, and also to avoid shimmery styles. I obtain my buttons from a reputable distributor, but I did notice a disclaimer on their website for the first time last week. Yes, you guessed it, "not intended for use by children under 12". Big surprise...

So the good: all textiles passed, even vintage fabrics. The bad: A 5 hour round trip drive with a toddler, and 3 1/2 hours of testing...what drudgery! The truly hideous: I'm losing some styles of buttons I love. Alas, not worth the risk. Eventually, I'll post all the style numbers and manufacturers of the buttons that failed, so that you too can avoid these styles. If they end up sitting on the shelves long enough, maybe the button manufacturers will change their practices. Just maybe...

U.S. House Small Business Committee Hearing Re: CPSIA

2009-01-13T11:40:00.003-05:00

Goodness, I sound like a broken record! But honestly, I am living, breathing, and sleeping this law these days, and will continue to do so until it's amended. So, to that aim, there will be a hearing in Washington, D.C. tomorrow. The hearing is open to the public, and anyone can attend. I understand that the people who will be testifying are already in place, but anyone can send an email to darienne.gutierrez@mail.house.gov prior to the meeting, and also up to 7 days after. So the following is the letter I am about to send, and I'd like you all to feel free to copy and paste as you see fit.

Dear Ms. Gutierrez:

I would like this letter to be included as part of the public record for the Small Business Committee open forum regarding the CPSIA and its impact on small businesses.

My name is Melissa McKeagney, and I am the owner of little girl Pearl. I manufacture children’s clothing out of my home, and have had my business for nearly 2 years. The income I make is crucial to the comfort of my family and our ability to pay our bills. If the CPSIA stands un-amended, I will most certainly have to close my business, as I will not be able to afford the testing required for the Certificate of General Conformity in August 2009.

I understand that the intent of this law is to keep unsafe products out of the hands of our children. Unfortunately, the way it is written, the law will simply not accomplish that aim. Unit testing is not only inefficient and expensive, but will not produce the desired result. For example, a manufacturer produces a ball and track style wooden toy without any coatings. They include a metal ball that has 620 ppm of lead. When tested as an overall unit however, this is not enough to make that toy non-compliant. However, if this toy had been component tested, that component would have to be changed, thus making that toy safer.

Additionally, there are inexpensive, non-destructive methods such as XRF technology that accomplish the same goal, yet will not be allowed after August 9th, 2009. These technologies are very reliable to detect lead in substrates, and are easily managed costs for small businesses like mine. The law also ignores supplier certifications and internationally recognized materials standards that meet and exceed the scope of the CPSIA. These supplier certifications and standards should be allowed as part of a “reasonable testing program.”

If this law remains “as is”, a vast number of small U.S. based businesses will have to close, putting even more of a strain on our weakened economy. I understand that the intent of the law is to make products safer for children. As a mother, I am very concerned about my child’s exposure to noxious substances. But as a business owner, there are more reasonable, common senses approaches to this onerous law. Please amend this law so that small crafters, manufacturers, and artisans can continue to offer wonderful, non-toxic, and safe alternatives to our children.

Sincerely,
Melissa McKeagney
www.littlegirlPearl.com

The hearing starts from 10am in the Hearing Room at 2360 Rayburn House Office at telephone (202) 225-4038 and fax: (202) 226-5276. So, if you're in the DC area, feel free to attend and make yourselves heard!

SAVE HANDMADE Promotion!

2009-01-10T18:31:00.004-05:00

I'm taking part in a promotion to save handmade from the CPSIA. Many other businesses are also offering discounts, so be sure to check out everyone's shops. This is being run by the Etsybaby and EtsyKids teams. Thanks to Jen from http://goldtonedesigns.etsy.com for the graphic!

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC2

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC3 http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC4

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC5 http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC6

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC7 http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC8

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC9 http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC10

http://shopetsybaby.com/CPSC11

sneak peek spring/summer '09 collection

2009-01-08T16:22:00.001-05:00

sneak peek spring/summer '09 collection, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Ever since I posted my new shop announcement about how I'm going to handle the new regulations regarding the CPSIA and lead testing, I've been asked by many just what changes I'll be making, and how I'm going to comply with the law. So, I thought I'd let you all in on my design process!

Up until now I have let the creative mind of my brain take me in any direction it cared to go. That meant a lot of one-of-a-kind items, fabrics that might or might not coordinate with other things in my line, and basically create items on a whim! I like working this way because when I see a fabric I love, I would just go ahead and order, without giving any thought to whether it "went" with other things that I was doing. While this method is fun for me, it didn't always allow my items to mix and match. So...

What the CPSIA has forced me to do is take a really hard look at my clothing. Can the items work on their own? Yes. Without a doubt. Can they mix and match? Not so much. How many fabrics am I using? Hundreds. Even though component testing isn't allowed right now, I expect this to change in the future. So, for my Spring/Summer '09 collection, I am working very hard to make my line work differently. I am drastically paring down fabric and button selections in order to keep the cost of testing down, and of course, pass that savings on to my customers. I know this sounds very fundamental to many of you, but it just isn't how I have operated.

In the past I was reluctant to buy bolts of fabric, because I never needed that much of any one thing. Having limited fabrics for a whole line will allow me to purchase in bulk, again, keeping costs low. I will also be concentrating on more reversible styles which will allow for greater versatility for my customers.

I am really, really excited about my upcoming designs. They are practical, stylish, and of course, CUTE! There will be tons to mix and match, and I will be concentrating on two colorways, namely pink and blue. These are bestsellers for obvious reasons, and they also look great together.

I am also committed to following the law, and to that end will have all of my styles tested for lead. I am pretty sure there isn't any there to begin with, but if the big guys can prove it, then I guess so can I.

Of course, in August, we face another big hurdle. XRF testing will not be allowed, and everything must be done by a third party lab. If that doesn't change, I am not sure how I can stay in business as the cost of wet chemical destructive testing is just too great for it to make any sense for a small business like mine. So keep working to change the law, and stay tuned for my Spring/Summer collection in February!

My New Shop Announcement

2009-01-06T16:09:00.002-05:00

Just thought I'd post this here as well, in case you missed it.

Dear Customers,

There is a new law that was enacted by Congress in November that will go into effect on February 10th, 2009. This law, called the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008, states that all children’s products, even handmade and one of a kind items, must be certified by a qualified lab for a maximum level of lead, regardless of whether the components used pose any kind of risk.

For now there is an interim provision in the law that allows for XRF technology, or x-ray detection of lead, to be used for compliance. However, this testing, while not as costly as destructive testing mandated in August, will still be a challenge to implement. In order to keep my business, I will be complying with this law to the best of my ability, but there will be some changes in my product offerings.

Many of the businesses on Etsy that offer products for children have been lobbying for changes in the law that will allow for a more rational approach to the lead requirements. For more information, you can read my blog, support the petition from the National Association of Manufacturers, and contact your congressmen to express your opinion on the untenable nature of this law in the current state of the U.S. economy.

Feel free to contact me with any questions you have. Thank you for your continued support and patronage.

CPSIA Business ICU-The Clever Kitty

2009-01-05T09:33:00.011-05:00

I thought that it might be a good idea to feature some sellers of children’s products that are going to be directly affected by the new regulations that go into affect on February 10th, 2009. Shannon of The Clever Kitty has been making and selling fabulous children’s products on Etsy for several years. She started her crafty endeavors as a young child, and decided her creative mind couldn’t be ignored. She got her degree in Fiber Arts at Kansas City Art Institute. Not only does she make and sell her wonderful baby products, but she’s a part time florist as well, and I’m not surprised. Her use of color is one of her strengths, and her gorgeous baby booties and accessories reflect that love.

One of my favorite items she makes are her florajanes. These come in a large array of colors, and can be custom made for your baby. They are felted booties that have a tiny little felted flower attached at the buckle, and snap for easy on and off. Inspired by Chuck Taylor’s, Shannon’s felted high-top booties are too cute for words, and are perfect for that sporty baby in your life.

If the CPSIA stands as written, Shannon will be forced to stop selling these gorgeous, SAFE, baby products. Please help by contacting your congressmen and tell them you don’t support this law un-amended.

CPSIA Comment 8, FINAL ONE!

2009-01-04T18:24:00.004-05:00

“Whether consideration of third-party testing of component parts should be given for any particular industry groups or particular component parts and materials. Explain what it is about these industries, component parts, and/or materials that make them uniquely suited to this approach.”

The Apparel Industry: The aim of the CPSIA is to keep dangerous products out of the hands of children. If manufacturers are able to use component and supplier provided testing of fabrics and other inputs, and spread the cost of testing over a larger product range (ie. the same zipper on 5 different garments, the same snaps on an entire product line) then the business can afford to be compliant. Also consumers would benefit from lower prices. If the apparel manufacturer must test each unit, costs will skyrocket, and many companies will fail.

There should also be a subset of exemptions for materials used in any industry that are inherently lead free, and do not pose a health risk to children. For the textiles, apparel and footwear sectors, fabrics, thread and other materials should be excluded because they are known to contain no or very low amounts of lead. Paper, printing inks, laminates, adhesives, bindings and cardboard used in books and other paper-based printed materials and toys should also be excluded.

There are already international standards in place for fabrics. Oeko-tex and GOTS certified fabric already exceed the standards set forth in the CPSIA. Apparel manufacturers should be able to choose these inputs without having to incur any additional testing at all, as they are already inherently safe. Many suppliers already test their products, and companies should be allowed to use these certificates as part of their “reasonable testing programs.”

Also, an exemption should be given for components that are inaccessible. The CPSIA establishes one clear example of an inaccessible component part: a part which is not physically exposed by reason of a sealed covering or casing that can withstand appropriate use and abuse testing. There is sufficient evidence for the Commission to immediately conclude that certain components of children’s products do not present hazards based on their inaccessibility to children when contained in the product, to include circuit boards that are in a sealed covering, innersprings in upholstered furniture, and other products that are inaccessible when considering normal use and abuse.

Toys that are component tested v. unit tested would also be inherently safer. If only one small component on an entire toy tests for higher levels of lead, then that component may not be enough to put that toy in the non-compliant category. But if it were component tested, and that component were to test at or higher than the threshold level, then that component would have to be replaced with a suitable substitute, thus making the unit inherently safer.

Feel free to comment! I am going to work on some rewrites this week, and will be sending mine to the CPSC as soon as those are complete. Feel free to copy any portion of my comments, and change to suit your own needs. The more people that comment on component v. unit testing, the better. Also, please review the NAM Petition. I am going to submit a copy of this petition along with my comments, as I wholeheartedly support it. All comments are due by January 30, 2009.

Please Take This Survey (Economic Impact of CPSIA)

2009-01-02T13:32:00.004-05:00

Only one more question to go, but Kathleen Fasanella of www.fashion-incubator.com is trying to get a handle on how this is going to affect all of our businesses. She has put together a survey that will become part of a larger "economic impact statement" because clearly the government is a bit clueless. It doesn't take very long to complete, but if we can show in a systematic way how this will affect everyone, it may help the cause.

CPSIA Comments, Question 7

2009-01-02T09:54:00.002-05:00

"How a manufacturer would manage lot-to-lot variation of component parts, in a third-party testing of component parts regime, to ensure finished consumer products are compliant."

In this instance, supplier provided testing is an advantage over unit testing. For example, if a manufacturer only tests one unit, yet that production run consists of 3 lots of components, then presumably only one of those lots will be tested per sku. But if the supplier of that component has an on-going testing regime, then those results would be superior to unit testing. If a supplier consistently chooses the same materials to produce their products, then that lot-to-lot variation will be insignificant. The same would apply to the manufacturer.

CPSIA Comments, Question 6

2009-01-02T09:34:00.002-05:00

Back to the task at hand: Question 6 is HARD! Again, please feel free to comment, and help me with these complex questions. Here goes:

"What changes in inventory control methods, if any, should be required if third-party testing of component parts were permitted. Address receipt, storage and quality control of incoming materials, management and control of work-in-process, non-conforming material control, control of rework, inventory rotation, and overall identification and control of materials."

A manufacturer would need to make sure that there is a system for labeling and tracking incoming components, and have that tracking linked to the test results and the final units.

The manufacturer must have an inventory system where untested components be kept separate from tested components. If a component is proven to be non-compliant, there must be a “quarantine” area to which workers on the floor do not have access. Then the manufacturer would need to make the determination whether to return that component to the initial manufacturer, scrap the component, or use it in a different manufacturing application.

There must be coordination between the inventory control and tracking system and the physical location in the facility. Once a component has been tested, logged, and stored that component must still be traceable to the final product by assigning batch ID#’s. For a micro-producer or artisan, this can be accomplished by supplier provided certifications, and not allowing non-compliant components into the workspace.

A Certain Level of Frustration...

2008-12-30T19:32:00.004-05:00

leads me to post this straight from The CPSC FAQ page:

Q: Do all children's products require testing for lead or is it only products with
some type of surface coating? We sell products that are used in physical education
classes (e.g. hula-hoops) that are made from polyethylene and are not painted or
coated. Will this product require third-party testing and certification for lead
content under the new CPSIA?
A: All children’s products (as defined by the CPSIA) subject to the lead limit of the Act
will eventually require testing for lead, not just those with surface coatings. It is
important to distinguish between the rules that apply to lead paint and surface coatings
and the rules that apply to lead content. The CPSIA provides limits to the amount of lead
in paint and surface coatings and limits to the amount of lead in the content of the product
itself. Children’s products that are painted, or have surface coatings are also subject to
the lead paint limit, in addition to the lead content limits.

The reason I reprinted this here is because there is still confusion among small manufacturers on etsy and the like that make products primarily intended for children under the age of 12 that think this law doesn't apply to them. Clearly, from the above stated, IT DOES! There is no loophole, there is no exemption (right now), and there is no magic bullet. So far, the CPSC is taking comments regarding component testing, and also ruling on whether certain materials such as uncoated wood and natural fibers (undyed) should be exempt. They have not yet ruled on these questions. I think we should all devote ourselves to changing this law, not arguing amongst ourselves whether it applies or not. IT DOES. Enough said.

CPSIA Comments, Question 5

2008-12-29T08:10:00.004-05:00

"Whether and how the use and control of subcontractors would be affected by
allowing the third-party testing of component parts."

This is the hardest question for me, because I don't contract out, and have no experience with the manufacturing process outside my own basement. So here goes.

A quality control system would have to be put in place that may include randomizing testing and implementing stricter quality control processes. Instead of checking the first few from a production run, a manufacturer might pull and spot check somewhere down the production line. That way if the contractor has substituted a tested component for another, a check against the original components could be performed. In the apparel industry, this could be performed by a visual inspection compared against the original compliant components specified by the manufacturer.

As for toys, or other products, this might be harder to determine. Whether a certain paint has been swapped for another, might be difficult to tell without doing random unit testing. However, if you did do unit testing on one of the first few from the production run, and then later on a switch was made, unit testing wouldn’t have made that product any safer versus component testing. It really comes down to random quality control.

I welcome all of your comments to help me formulate these responses, as I'm pretty sure I'm not aware of many of the complicating factors that many businesses face.

_________________

Inspired by a Pillow

2008-12-28T07:51:00.004-05:00

polka dot interrupted/inspiration, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

To take a break from my CPSIA crusade, I wanted to write a little bit about how I am inspired. It really comes in all forms. Sometimes I'll see a shirt detail, something in nature, a colorful room, and each one of those things will get me thinking.

This time I was thumbing through Metropolitan Home on the airplane headed from Boston to Detroit. I spied that wonderful pillow you see pictured with the black and white polka dots. I love the strips of fabric and how the fabric was folded in on itself. Well, the rest just followed. Thinking on my stash at home I decided that Amy Butler's martini polka dot would be the perfect fabric on which to try this out. So, down to the workroom I went. I really wanted to leave the tucks un-sewn, but when that didn't work, I put plan B into action and topstitched each of the slanted pleats, and the result is what you see.

The gathered skirt has three horizontal growth pleats (mainly because I needed to shorten the length), but the real design feature is several criss-crossing pintucks that flirt around the bottom of the skirt. I like the way these mimic the slanted pleating on the yoke. Whoever said you needed to sew straight lines!

I love getting inspiration from other designers, but obviously my dress is nothing like the pillow, just my own take on it. I don't think any designer designs in a vacuum. There are always those who come before, and after all the human form hasn't changed much over the centuries. Thanks to Amy Butler, as her fabric lends itself perfectly to this style, and I can't wait to try it in different colors.

CPSIA Comments, Question 4

2008-12-27T13:30:00.005-05:00

On to Question 4:

"Assuming all component parts are compliant, what manufacturing processes and/or environmental conditions might introduce factors that would increase the risk of allowing non-compliant consumer products into the marketplace."

There is no manufacturing process that has the possibility of introducing lead unless it involves introducing a new component that might contain lead, ie. solder. Simply heating, sewing, cutting, ironing, and the like, cannot change the chemical make up of the unit, and will not introduce lead if it doesn't already exist.

If however during the process of manufacturing, an untested component is introduced such as solder or a surface coating, then that might change whether or not the unit is compliant. But, the fact remains that if all the components have been tested, then processing those components will not alter the chemical compounds significantly enough to pose any hazard.

My husband and I laughed at this one this morning. Short of alchemy, or having a nuclear reactor in your manufacturing facility, introducing lead where none exists is impossible.

CPSIA Question 3

2008-12-26T23:49:00.003-05:00

Forgive me if this is a tad incoherent, and replete with run-on sentences, but I wanted to get something down on paper before I headed to bed. Here is the next question that the CPSC is taking comments on regarding component testing.

The conditions, if any, under which supplier third-party testing of raw materials or components should be acceptable.

The conditions which supplier third-party testing of raw materials and components should be accepted is if the manufacturer using those raw materials does not alter them in any chemical way. For example, a fabric manufacturer tests each fabric for lead and it is under the allowable limit according to the CPSIA. The fabric manufacturer then sends a copy of the test results to the manufacturer of the children’s product, or has them available electronically. Provided the manufacturer of the children’s product does not chemically alter the fabric (painting, surface coating, etc.), then that supplier third party test should satisfy the requirement of the CPSIA. It would not be cost effective to retest already tested materials, and retesting would not make that particular product any safer for the child. If the manufacturer is cutting and sewing a raw material, and not altering it in any other way, supplier third party testing should be acceptable.

Moreover, the cost of testing already tested materials not only hinders business, but it is redundant and unnecessary. As manufacturers seek out raw materials that are inherently lead free, or have already been tested by the supplier and shown to comply in order to avoid costly testing, the likely result is that less lead will be introduced into the supply chain. The demand for supplies that have already been tested would likely rise. If a supplier cannot prove that his raw material complies with the law, then the demand for his product would go down, resulting in fewer raw materials that contain higher levels of lead.

In fact there are many European standards that already exceed regulations set forth in the CPSIA to date, and as such should be allowed as part of a testing program. Supplier provided certifications would dramatically lessen the economic impact on small businesses, and allow many to continue operations.

CPSIA Question 2

2008-12-24T10:19:00.002-05:00

Question 2: The conditions and or circumstances, if any, that should be considered in allowing third-party testing of component parts.

The conditions that should be considered in allowing component testing are if the actual components used in the finished product are the same as those that were tested. Provided that each component has not been chemically altered, or any additional raw materials are introduced into the finished product, then component testing should be allowed.

In fact, component testing would be superior to unit testing when one small component would be over the legal limit for lead. For example, the allowable limit is 600 parts per million for the entire unit. If the buttons used on a garment were over that limit, but there were only 2 used on a finished garment, that allowable limit would probably not be exceeded for the unit, but would be exceeded for the component. In this case, component testing would reduce the danger of a small component of the overall product being over the allowable limit for lead.

CPSIA Question 1

2008-12-24T09:17:00.004-05:00

The CPSC has requested comments from interested parties regarding component vs. unit testing and supplier provided certification. I'm going to take these question by question, even though many seem to be redundant. Please feel free to use my responses as part of your own, but I do think the more varied the verbiage the better. If they hear from many of us in our own voices, maybe they will actually listen.

On to the questions:

Number 1: How the risk of introducing non-compliant product into the marketplace would be affected by permitting third-party testing of the component parts versus of a finished consumer unit.

The only risk that would be introduced into consumer goods by component testing versus unit testing would be if a manufacturer substituted a different component after the component testing was completed. Say for example a certain trim was used in the prototype and the testing was completed on that particular trim. That trim then became unavailable for production and a different trim was substituted for the production run that was similar, but untested.

Similarly, if the manufacturer embellishes the product with appliqués, roller paints, iron decals, or other such embellishments, and did not have these components tested previously, there might be a chance of introducing non-compliant components.

However, a manufacturer should be allowed to permit the certifications from suppliers for the unaltered component parts, and additionally test those components for which no testing has been performed. Then that unit should be deemed sufficiently tested. Provided the manufacturer tested each component that was part of the finished unit, and no substitutions were made, then no subsequent risk would be introduced.

waiting for Santa

2008-12-20T22:23:00.001-05:00

waiting for Santa, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Here are the velvet knickerbockers. Oh my goodness, my child is looking so "little girl!" Oh the pangs...

strawberry knickerbockers

2008-12-20T21:28:00.002-05:00

covered bridge, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

I love dresses, cute ruffles, twirl skirts, and all the rest. But what I end up dressing my daughter in is usually a little more everyday. These knickerbockers were inspired by a browse through one of my Ottobre Design magazines.

So, I started with a cute little strawberry print corduroy, and decided to make them reversible. Now this seems simple enough, but when I added the cuff on the bottom, it became a little more complicated. Not to mention the fact that I was trying this out at about 11:00pm, when i should have been going to sleep. My first attempt at the reversible part ended up not working. For anyone who knows anything about mobius strips, this will make sense to you. So, you have to leave a small opening and grasp the two raw edges together, and just keep pinning until you have all the appropriate edges together so that when you turn it right side out, it lays together.

On the reverse, I used a gorgeous print from Anna Maria Horner from the garden party line. Lovely. I also love that you get two totally different looks in one. Versatile, cute, and sort of boyish which I think looks adorable on little girls.

Incidentally, I made a pair of these out of a gray and purple velvet I had in my stash, a peasant blouse out of rayon, and a violet linen vest with a ribbon laced grommet detail in the back for her visit to Santa. Alas, my child will probably never sit in his lap, but I did get a couple pictures anyway. I love how the soft velvet looks in this unexpected style, and I hope to offer this in my etsy shop soon.

This picture was taken on our local covered bridge. Can't wait to do a few more there, I love the struts in the background.

CPSIA and NAM

2008-12-20T14:11:00.006-05:00

As I was reading Kathleen Fasanella's blog today (it's all good by the way, and there is so much information, it is mind blowing for a designer) there was a link to a petition as set forth by the National Association of Manufacturers (NAM) that I believe is truly outstanding in a "so rational it's scary" sort of way. In it they have petitioned the CPSC to clarify the intent of the CPSC in regards to supplier provided certifications, exemptions for components that have little or no lead in them, and other provisions for inaccessible parts.

It is the best thing I have seen to date, and makes the most sense to me as a small business owner who wants to eventually grow her business. I don't want an exemption from the law just because I am a small manufacturer making things out of my home. I realize that I am a manufacturer, regardless of the size of my company. I want to play by the rules. I want my products to be as safe as they can be. But certain things about complying with this law do not make sense.

Why do we all need to go through the expense of the third party testing when it has already been done by the fabric manufacturer? The thread manufacturer? And the fact remains, that fabrics alone are not a real source of lead to begin with. Perhaps if I were surface coating them, or printing them, I might think twice, but I am not. Forgive me, but we'd all be very, very sick by now if there was a real risk of lead contamination from cotton clothing.

OK here is the petition. It's beautifully written in legalese, so it ought to get someone's attention over there at the CPSC since they are so fond of that language.

Thanks for your support.

Melissa

CPSIA, It's starting to happen!

2008-12-16T08:28:00.002-05:00

OK everyone, all our letters and emails and overall hard work is starting to get the CPSC's attention. They have now opened up comments on component testing. This is important to many of us because if they allow manufacturer's to test each component, and possibly use our supplier's testing results, the costs of conforming will decrease significantly.

I want to ensure my products are safe. To that end I have contacted Westminster Fibers, the fabric company I use for the bulk of my line. Guess what? No detectable lead. Big surprise, right? I also contacted Mettler thread, and because they test using Oeko-tex standards, a very rigorous European program, they are lead free as well.

If I am allowed to use their tests as part of my "reasonable testing program", my costs are significantly decreased. It could be that only my trims and buttons need to be tested, in which case my costs to test could be spread out over a larger product line. And, I wouldn't have to sew up every product before the test could be performed. Batching this out to a lab becomes much simpler and cheaper. This is very, very important, and could mean the survival of my little business.

So here is the link: http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/cpsia.html and you can scroll down to see just under "What's New" to see the pdf form. These are the questions they are specifically targeting to the industry. It is complicated, but I will post my letter here when I get everything written. The deadline to post your comments is January 30th. The more people we get to respond to this, the better.

CPSIA, A Form Letter?? Seriously?

2008-12-13T18:38:00.005-05:00

Oh yes, seriously. I wrote to my Representative in Congress, Mr. Paul Hodes about the new law that has already gone into effect, and will basically shut my handmade dress business down unless amended. What did I get in return? Some junior staffer sending me a form letter. Whoever it was no doubt saw the initials CPSC, and pulled up the closest thing to it among their computer files for autoresponses. Here is the disgraceful letter I received...

December 11, 2008

Dear Ms. McKeagney,

Thank you for contacting me about consumer product safety. I truly appreciate hearing from you, and I am working hard to stand up for New Hampshire 's interests in Congress.

I share your concerns about the recent safety issues and recalls. I want to make sure that everything possible is being done to protect children in the Granite State and across the country from unsafe toys. Twenty million imported toys manufactured in China and elsewhere were recalled this summer. According to Mattel CEO Bob Eckert, some of these toys contained nearly 200 times the legal limit for lead. Currently, at the Consumer Protection Safety Commission (CPSC), there is only one inspector charged with testing toys to make sure they are safe for our children. Toys are now being sold in our stores that are untested and are unsafe. Even more troubling, the chairwoman of the CPSC, Nancy Nord, said recently that she was opposed to increasing the agency's funding or authority. This is unacceptable, especially when it involves protecting our children.

The CPSC is critical to protecting the safety of all Americans by reducing the unreasonable risk of injury associated with consumer products. The CPSC is responsible for developing uniform safety standards for consumer products, minimizing conflicting state and local regulations, and promoting research into prevention of product-related deaths, illnesses, and injuries. We must adequately fund the CPSC to ensure that only the safest products end up in our stores and in our homes.

I am a proud cosponsor of H.R. 4040, the Consumer Product Safety Modernization Act. This legislation would establish consumer product safety standards and other safety requirements for children's products. H.R. 4040 would also reauthorize and modernize the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

On December 19, 2007, I voted for H.R. 4040, which passed the House by a vote of 407 to 0. On August 14, 2008, H.R. 4040 was signed into law.

Thank you again for sharing your thoughts with me. If you would like more information on this or any other issue, please visit my website at http://hodes.house.gov. Please do not hesitate to contact me in the future to express your views or if I can be of help on any matter.

Sincerely,

Paul Hodes

Member of Congress

And here is the letter I shot back in return. He completely missed my point, because he clearly never read my initial letter.

Congressmen Hodes:

While I appreciate the need to keep our children safe, this law has far reaching unintended consequences. I would appreciate a direct response, and not a form letter to this matter as you did not address a single concern of mine.

I am the owner/manufacturer of little girl Pearl, a girls clothing company, and make everything myself out of my home. I started my business over a year and a half ago, when I took a huge pay cut at my job with the airlines. My little company helps us pay the bills, and makes us feel a little more comfortable at the end of the month. Many of my items are one of a kind, which makes third party testing unfeasible, not to mention the fact that my items are inherently lead free in the first place. I do not use any kind of paint or surface coating, and use mainly quality cotton fabrics for the bulk of my line.

Unfortunately, at this time, component testing is not allowed. Say for example I use 10 different fabrics (for me it's in the hundreds), and 15 different kinds of buttons, and 2 different zippers, and 1 kind of snap. I couldn't just take one of each and have each tested on its own. No, I would have to take hours of my time, sew each product as I do now, and submit it for testing. Well folks, there goes half my inventory right there, not to mention my time. The testing is destructive, so I wouldn't even get the original dress back. It just isn't feasible for us as micro-producers to do the testing in this way, or any manufacturer for that matter. The way the law is written it isn't possible to spread the cost of the testing out among several different styles because you have to test by unit, or each style.

In addition, while the government has ruled that phthalate content testing will not be retroactive from February 10th, 2009, lead testing will be. That means that my current stock becomes illegal to sell past February 10th, unless I submit my dresses to the necessary tests. Regarding the testing, it will cost anywhere between $100-200 at the current rate, and these rates are likely to go up as more manufacturers realize that they must get these tests performed by the deadline. There are only 14 labs that are certified in the U.S. to do this kind of testing. Maybe you know folks who can afford a $200 jumper, but I know I don't. Especially in the current economic state of our country.

It has taken me so much blood, sweat, and tears to build up my company, and the thought of not being able to do what I love is simply heartbreaking. Of course the impetus for the new regulations stemmed from the fiasco of the imported toys from China last year and all of the ensuing recalls. Of course I want to protect our children from unsafe products, but unfortunately this law has gone way too far in its scope. The handmade movement was one of the results from parents wanting to purchase items produced in the U.S. by people who could be their neighbors and friends. Now our government has seen fit to take one more choice away from U.S. consumers and forced them back to products manufactured abroad, and large manufacturers who will have an easier time spreading the costs of testing over a larger product line.

But even the large manufacturers are not without their dilemmas. In a letter dated November 14th, 2008 to Ms. Cheryl Falvey, General Counsel to the CPSC, Mr. Richard Woldenberg, chairman of an educational toy company, stated that Walmart had informed its suppliers of children's products that it intends to return all merchandise regardless of age, that cannot be proven to comply with the new standards. Two other major retailers are rumored to have taken a similar position. If this is the case, you will absolutely see widespread corporate bankruptcies and even more defaults on loans as manufacturers are unprepared to see unprecedented returns of their inventories.

I realize that it is not politically expedient to say that one is against children's safety regulations. But the fact remains that this is going to hurt the economy at a time when we can ill afford one more major sector meltdown. I urge you to take a look at this law and help us Americans try to change it.

Yours Sincerely,
Melissa McKeagney
http://www.littlegirlpearl.com

And, no surprise not a word back yet. I'll keep plugging away, and it's off to the media outlets for me.

My Studio

2008-12-13T08:29:00.001-05:00

My Studio, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

As promised to someone, although I can't remember who at this point, about as much of my studio as I am willing to reveal. These rolling units were purchased from our local middle school as they were preparing to move to new digs near the high school. We got them for a song, but more than a little bit of elbow grease to get them into the truck bed and then into our house. They weigh a ton! But, they are amazing. They are about 3 feet deep, so I can put a ton of fabric in each one, and coordinate by color. Such an improvement for me, as nothing gets lost in the shuffle. I can see exactly what I have, and what I might need to order more of, although with my propensity to over-order, this hasn't been an issue.

I put all of the pre-washed fabrics in the cubbies, and leave the bolts on top and wash as needed. I store all of my ribbons and trims in a high boy around the corner. This has been a god-send as everything used to be all jumbled up in a box. My buttons are all organized in an old block printing drawer (you know the letter stamps they used to use to print newspapers) and each is divided by style. The whole drawer sits on top of the high boy, and I can see each button at a glance. I am by nature a disorganized person, but I found that I was wasting more time looking for things than I was sewing! Being organized in my workspace has made me a whole lot more efficient. Now if I could just tackle my sewing table!

I promise more pictures once that happens, but right now it isn't fit for publication!

Olive and Pumpkin fabrics

2008-12-12T10:43:00.001-05:00

Olive and Pumpkin, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

Here is another inspired choice. I love using colors that are ignored in the world of girl. Pink is great. Pink is lovely. But I get tired of it! These unusual colors will stand out in a sea of pink, and is great for those darker winter days.

New Skirts!

2008-12-12T10:42:00.001-05:00

Wheat Plaid and Happy Dot, originally uploaded by littlegirlPearl.

I love thinking about texture, color, pattern. In fact, I really never stop thinking about it. My daughter loves her twirly skirts, but cotton just seems a little too insubstantial for our winters. So, I headed to the Dorr Mill Store which stocks the most fabulous 100% wools imaginable. They have every color of the rainbow, hand-dyes, british woolens, and pendleton wools. Gorgeous. I limited myself to two new colors, and can't wait to have the time to sew them up into my new drop waist style. And I can't resist a bit of vintage trim and ribbon. Should be fun!

A Few New Links for CPSIA Activism

2008-12-11T17:48:00.001-05:00

I ran across these today, and I thought they were very worthwhile. So here you go...

http://www.thesmartmama.com/bg/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=195&Itemid=23

http://www.cpsia-central.ning.com

Also, search CPSC or CPSIA in the etsy forums, and there are some good links too. Be careful of misinformation though, people are grasping at straws to try to find loopholes in the law. At this time, there are none. Please do everything you can to get this law amended.

Write directly to Barack Obama and Joe Biden at:

http://change.gov/page/s/economy

The CPSIA and its Unintended Consequences

2008-12-10T11:03:00.007-05:00

I have been putting off writing this because it just makes me feel heartsick. I have felt a bit like chicken little whenever I have talked about this new law to my friends because when I bring up the consequences of this new law under the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, it feels like I'm saying the sky is falling. But for many of us with handcrafted products and small businesses, this really is the case.

To recap the law as I understand it, all products that are intended for the use of children under the age of 12 must now be sold with a Certificate of General Conformity. That certificate must state that the product in question has been certified for minimum parts per billion of lead and if applicable phthalate content. This includes fabrics, buttons, zippers, surface coated materials, toys, books, electronics, and the like. Basically nothing is exempt whether you make one of a kind items, or are the importer/manufacturer of articles that wind up in big box stores. It effects everyone. The manufacturers of the raw materials are not subject to this testing, because these items are not largely marketed to children themselves. It is up to the manufacturer of the item to perform the necessary testing.

Unfortunately, at this time, component testing is not allowed. Say for example I use 10 different fabrics (for me it's in the hundreds), and 15 different kinds of buttons, and 2 different zippers, and 1 kind of snap. I couldn't just take one of each and have each tested on its own. No, I would have to take hours of my time, sew each product as I do now, and submit it for testing. Well folks, there goes half my inventory right there, not to mention my time. The testing is destructive, so I wouldn't even get the original dress back. It just isn't feasible for us as micro-producers to do the testing in this way, or any manufacturer for that matter. The way the law is written it isn't possible to spread the cost of the testing out among several different styles because you have to test by unit, or each style.

In addition, while the government has ruled that phthalate content testing will not be retroactive from February 10th, 2009, lead testing will be. That means that my current stock becomes illegal to sell past February 10th, unless I submit my dresses to the necessary tests. Regarding the testing, it will cost anywhere between $100-200 at the current rate, and these rates are likely to go up as more manufacturers realize that they must get these tests performed by the deadline. There are only 14 labs that are certified in the U.S. to do this kind of testing. Do you know anyone who can afford a $200 jumper? I know I don't. Especially in the current economic state of our country.

It has taken me years to build up my wonderful fabric stash, and the thought of not being able to do what I love is simply heartbreaking. Of course the impetus for the new regulations stemmed from the fiasco of the imported toys from China last year and all of the ensuing recalls. Of course I want to protect our children from unsafe products, but unfortunately this law has gone way too far in its scope. The handmade movement was one of the results from parents wanting to purchase items produced in the U.S. by people who could be their neighbors and friends. Now our government has seen fit to take one more choice away from U.S. consumers and forced them back to products manufactured abroad, and large manufacturers who will have an easier time spreading the costs of testing over a larger product line.

But even the large manufacturers are not without their dilemmas. In a letter dated November 14th, 2008 to Ms. Cheryl Falvey, General Counsel to the CPSC, Mr. Richard Woldenberg, chairman of an educational toy company, stated that Walmart had informed its suppliers of children's products that it intends to return all merchandise regardless of age, that cannot be proven to comply with the new standards. Two other major retailers are rumored to have taken a similar position. If this is the case, you will absolutely see widespread corporate bankruptcies.

So here is what you can do. I am urging everyone to write to their legislators and call if you can, to tell them that you want this law amended or repealed to protect artisans and craftspeople who are simply trying to pay their mortgages and support their families. Write to tell them that you want a choice in the marketplace, and don't want to buy only mass produced items for your children. While everyone wants safe products, I am urging you to let them know that they are only hurting American families who are trying to do the right thing in the first place. I implore you to let them know that they should not be regulating things like fabric that have very little to no lead in them in the first place.

Here are some helpful links for more information:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com (The forum regarding the CPSIA has been opened to the public)
http://www.nationalbankruptcyday.com

If you want to try to interpet the law yourself here are some of the goverment links :
A copy of the actual law as it stands today: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpsia.pdf
The general CPSIA website : http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/cpsia.html
Standard Operating Procedure for Determining Total Lead : http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/CPSC-CH-E1001-08.pdf
Original CPSIA FAQs http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/faq/faq.html#educational
Most recent updates to FAQs : http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/faq/newfaqs.pdf
How CSPIA effects exsisting inventory & by extension vintage, resale, & recycling of children's items :
http://www.cpsc.gov/library/foia/advisory/317.pdf

Here's links to write your district's congressperson and senate represenatives as long as your still a registered voter. Otherwise write directly to the CPSIA voicing your concern.

https://writerep.house.gov/writerep/welcome.shtml

http://www.senate.gov/general/contact_information/senators_cfm.cfm

http://www.cpsc.gov/cgibin/newleg.aspx

Thanks for doing all you can.